Prince Charles’ Tailors, Turnbull & Asser, Kick Off Spring Events in Los Angeles

Turnbull & Asser, the British brand founded in 1885, has dressed celebrated women and men throughout history including Twiggy, Bianca Jagger, Gwyneth Paltrow, Katharine Hepburn, Winston Churchill, Duke Ellington, The Beatles and Sean Connery. The Jermyn Street shirtmaker is probably best known for providing shirts for Prince Charles and Prince William.
The brand’s Bespoke Master Steven Quin, whose official title is Royal Warrant Holder to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, will be coming Stateside this weekend to introduce Yankee customers to the art of bespoke. Quin was last in Los Angeles in November 2016, where he also held client appointments and hosted a stylist dinner. The heritage house once had a shop in Beverly Hills, which closed in 2013, and still has a shop in New York.

Turnbull & Asser Bespoke shirt fabrics. 

Quin’s tour kicks off Friday at the Beverly Hills Hotel, where he will be meeting with customers by appointment and one-on-one to go through the proper fitting and measurement process, and help them choose the best collar, cuff, fabric and pattern to purchase their own one-of-a-kind bespoke shirt.
“The thing about bespoke is that most people have the vision of stiff, traditional cotton shirts made to be worn

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Murral RTW Fall 2017

Watching Murral’s fall show was like stepping through the looking glass into a fantasy world. Models with twisted hair wound their way around a broken heart-shaped runway in layers of quirky garments. Designers Yusuke Muramatsu and Ayumi Sekiguchi said they were inspired by the idea of nostalgia, which Muramatsu described as “warm but lonely.”
They showed a series of girly looks in mixed prints, such as plaid pants with a metallic pink knit top and floral embroidered mesh camisole, and a full denim skirt embroidered with red hearts paired with a ruffle-trimmed orange cardigan and botanical print blouse.
The designers played with proportions, turning out cropped pullovers and a shrunken patchwork peplum blazer, as well as an oversize crushed velvet bomber jacket and voluminous wool coats. Frayed, raw edges appeared on mixed plaid skirts and two-tone denim jeans. This, as well as motorcycle-inspired jackets, helped to temper the ultra-femininity of the collection and gave it a subtle edge.

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Mint Designs RTW Fall 2017

After many seasons using some of Tokyo’s largest fashion show venues to present their collections, this time Hokuto Katsui and Nao Yagi chose a small presentation in their brand’s flagship store, with audience members watching through the shop windows in the street outside. In their show notes they said they were attracted by the idea of incorporating noise from the city into their show.
The pair designed their collection around the phrase “She is so British,” which they used to describe a friend who had returned to Japan after living in England. They wanted to re-create the cute, tomboyish look that they associate with young British women.
Oversize silhouettes dominated the offering. Full, calf-length skirts and wide-leg pants with exaggerated cuffs were topped by double-breasted coats, baggy pullovers, shirts with sleeves so long they swallowed the models’ hands, and chunky cable-knit cardigans. The designers mixed a variety of textiles, including Glen plaid wool, lace, a jacquard depicting English roses, herringbone tweed and jersey.
While it lacked the impact and fun factor of their previous collections, Katsui and Yagi’s latest offering had a certain whimsical charm to it that was hard not to smile at.

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Lithium RTW Fall 2017

For his first runway show in several years, Takeshi Hiramatsu wanted to get back to his brand’s roots by designing pieces that he described as “timeless” and “minimal,” focusing more on fabric and construction than style. But he took the concept a bit too far, resulting in a collection that, while skillfully made, was predominantly dull.
Hiramatsu used neutral black, gray, brown, white and olive, with only a few exceptions such as deep teal and wine-colored trousers and a blue satin jacket embroidered with traditional Japanese motifs. The collection was heavy in outerwear, with seemingly endless variations of trenchcoats, leather biker jackets, bombers and overcoats. The remaining garments were often so nondescript that they seemed almost like an afterthought: simple T-shirts, pants and turtleneck knits. For women, Hiramatsu showed black lace camisoles, an off-the-shoulder sweater and a knee-length tulle skirt.
After some 50 largely repetitive looks, it was hard not to wonder why Hiramatsu chose not to show anything more original, especially after such a long time away from the fashion show circuit.

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Four Holdings Buys Men’s Online Platform Oki-ni.com

DOUBLE TAKE: Oki-ni.com has come full circle and now belongs to the owners who originally launched the company in 2001.
Four Holdings said Friday that it purchased the luxury men’s wear online platform from the French e-commerce and media group MenInvest.
Four Holdings, which is 25 percent owned by Sports Direct’s billionaire boss Mike Ashley, has been busy of late: Earlier this month, it purchased the ailing luxury brand Agent Provocateur. The move dovetails with Ashley’s ambitions to move upmarket.
Oki-ni was created by Four Marketing, a division of Four Holdings, as a concept store on Savile Row.
The store stocked a collection of collaborative pieces with brands including Adidas, Levi’s, Paul Smith and Porter. It was a pioneer in fusing bricks-and-clicks, allowing customers to order online and get home delivery, or buy online and pick up in store.
Now an online-only proposition, Oki-ni carries a selection of luxury and contemporary men’s wear brands, distributed to customers in more than 150 countries.
Four Marketing is an agency that represents 30-plus brands including Stone Island, CP Co., Paul & Shark and Velvet by Graham & Spencer.
The company owns the London flagship retail store for each of those brands and operates the relevant local e-commerce site.
Four Marketing is also the owner

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