Post-Showroom, Retailers Reappraise Hedi Slimane’s Celine Debut

PARIS — Now that the social media furor has died down and order books have been filled, what did retailers really think of Hedi Slimane’s debut collection for Celine?
Reached directly after the show, which took place on Sept. 28, buyers were largely positive in their assessments — with some exceptions and caveats. Indeed, some major stores declined to comment for fear of reprisals, while others reserved full judgment until they saw what was in the showroom.
In the run-up to the first Slimane-designed handbags arriving in stores today, retailers reappraised the commercial potential of the collection, including the vast range of bags, shoes and accessories that he presented in the showroom. And while some are still mourning the era of Phoebe Philo — and others pointed to a risk of overlap with his former label, Saint Laurent — the majority are confident that the Slimane era will spell sales growth.
“I personally loved Celine,” said Jeffrey Kalinsky, designer fashion director at Nordstrom. “When I’m in a showroom and love something, I get manically overstimulated. I get kind of a rush. That happened in the way that I felt with every fiber of my being that this would be a great thing for us.”
Linda

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12.11.2018No comments
Narciso Rodriguez to Receive National Arts Club Honor

The plaudits keep coming for Narciso Rodriguez. After receiving the CFDA Lifetime Achievement award and the FIT Couture Council Award for Artistry this year, he will receive the National Arts Club’s 2018 Medal of Honor in Fashion at its gala Dec. 7.
Julianna Margulies, Rachel Feinstein and Cindi Leive will speak at the event.
The National Arts Club was founded in 1898 by author and poet Charles De Kay, the literary and art critic for The New York Times, who started the organization as a gathering place for artists and patrons. The NAC is located on Gramercy Park South, a few blocks away from Rodriguez’s longtime studio, and hosts weekly members-only and public events. Its Medal of Honor galas honor leaders in art, literature, music, fashion, film, architecture and technology. Past recipients have included WH Auden, Eudora Welty, Tennessee Williams, Norman Mailer, Saul Bellow, Louise Bourgeois, Whoopi Goldberg, Lin-Manuel Miranda and William Ivey Long, to name a few.

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EXCLUSIVE: Designer Daniëlle Cathari Debuts Namesake Brand

Six months ago, 23-year-old designer Daniëlle Cathari sat down with WWD for an in-depth conversation about her background, plans and journey with Adidas Originals throughout her fall 2018 collaboration. Toward the end of the conversation, Cathari mentioned plans to postpone graduation and focus on her own collection, adding, “I’m at the beginning of the process — really at the beginning — but whenever I have more and something to show, I’ll let you know.”
Today, Cathari’s future plans become present with the launch of her namesake brand with a debut capsule collection titled “DC Drop 1,” to be introduced exclusively on her web site Daniellecathari.com on Friday.
“I call it a drop because it’s not a full collection; it’s a capsule of six pieces,” the Amsterdam-based designer stated. “Of course I’m dropping my first collection, but it comes with actually launching my whole brand. So everyone gets a first impression of this — not just the items or clothing — but the whole package and vibe….We wanted to be clear, ‘This is the brand. This is Daniëlle Cathari.’” 
Cathari has explained her aesthetic to be very much about complementing contrasts, with an emphasis on modern yet simplistic details and comfort. The unisex capsule includes classic streetwear silhouettes —

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Vince to Launch Unfold, an Online Subscription Service

Vince, an indirectly wholly owned subsidiary of Vince Holding Corp., is joining the sharing economy.
Today the company will launch Vince Unfold, an online subscription service that provides unlimited access to its women’s apparel collection.
Powered by Caastle, the retailer claims that Vince Unfold is the first apparel subscription service to be offered by a retail brand in the advanced contemporary market.
The service will offer customers access to the brand’s collections of women’s apparel for a flat monthly fee, with the option to keep and purchase favorite items. The price of the item will be discounted from 20 to 60 percent, depending on the age of the merchandise. Vince Unfold is priced at $160 a month for a four-garment plan and includes free priority shipping, unlimited exchanges and returns, and complimentary laundering services. There are no commitments, and a customer can cancel anytime. Insurance is included in the $160 subscription that will cover damage, loss or theft. The service is operated through vinceunfold.com.
“Vince Unfold is an innovative new subscription service that will tap our existing product assortment to drive incremental revenue while further advancing awareness of the Vince brand,” said Brendan Hoffman, chief executive officer of Vince. “We believe that subscription services

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Designer Carla Fernández to Receive Miami Award

MIAMI HONOR: Talk about stirring the political pot. A Mexican woman has become the first fashion designer to receive DesignMiami fair’s Visionary Award. Carla Fernández will accept the honor in tandem with her husband, visual artist and designer Pedro Reyes, during Miami Art Week in December. Speaking from their home in Mexico City, she wasn’t aware of the distinction, but was elated that fashion is getting its due. “People think of fashion as superficial, but the boundaries of what’s considered art, design and fashion have to change,” said Fernández.
Beyond their marital status, the couple comes as a unit a lot these days for their shared, recurring themes of political protest, social justice and helping out the little guy. Their anthropological practices were another impetus for their first museum exhibit, “Double Agents,” which is on view at the Scottsdale Museum of Contemporary Art through Feb. 3. During DesignMiami, one of their booths will disseminate information on global migration and split proceeds from the sale of limited-edition tunics, ponchos and totes between indigenous communities and migrant children separated from their parents. Linen and cotton pieces are printed with a text-based map of the Americas that documents first nations. The original, large-scale map, their

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