EXCLUSIVE: Giorgio Armani on Coed Show, Re-branding and Emporio Armani Caffè and Ristoranti

MILAN — Giorgio Armani is shaking things up.
For the first time, the designer will hold a coed show for his signature line on the evening of Feb. 23 at Silos, the exhibition space he opened in 2015 — which is also a first after years of showing at his Teatro. A day earlier, his Emporio Armani Caffè & Ristorante, closed since May, will reopen after a complete makeover (the Emporio show will take place on Feb. 21).
A pioneer in the arena of designer food and hospitality, Armani felt it was time to revisit the location, which opened in 2000, and move on from a graphic setting to a warmer atmosphere. As reported, he is also reimagining his flagship at 760 Madison Avenue in Manhattan as part of a larger residential project in a new 96,000-square-foot building composed of a two-story flagship and 19 luxury residences designed by Armani. The building, with interiors also conceived by him, is scheduled to break ground in 2020 and is expected to be finished by 2023.
Interior design is not the only area Armani, who is also chairman of his fashion group, has been reevaluating. In 2017, he revealed he was planning to focus on the Giorgio

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Ones to Watch: Milan Fashion Week Fall 2019

1910 Borbonese  
Italian label Borbonese, which was established in 1910 and rose to a peak of success in the Seventies, is launching during Milan Fashion Week a new line, called 1910 Borbonese.
“Fashion is not only about style anymore, but it’s about a language and to reach the right audience we have to talk to them through their own world, engaging them and involving them in the changing process, transmitting our values through a new communication and product vocabulary,” said Borbonese chief executive officer Alessandro Pescara, who tapped M1992 creative director Dorian Tarantini and Matteo Mena, also part of M1992’s creative team, to design the brand’s first collection.
“The choice of Dorian and Matteo is the result of a careful analysis of the strategic direction, which I intend to give to the company,” Pescara explained. “The main goal will be to reach a new consumer audience expanding Borbonese’s traditional one with a focus on Millennials, which means that part of the global population with the biggest purchasing power in the immediate future.”
Under the new 1910 Borbonese 1910, Tarantini and Mena will present a limited-edition capsule collection infused with their signature subcultural sensibility and passion for the Eighties.
In keeping with the Borbonese brand’s heritage,

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EXCLUSIVE: Gosha Rubchinskiy Collaborates With Diesel Red Tag

MILAN — Gosha Rubchinskiy is the next designer to present a collection under the Diesel Red Tag moniker with his project GR-Uniforma. The collection will be unveiled in Venice for the opening of the Art Biennale on May 9 and be presented with an art performance created by the Moscow-based Rubchinskiy.
Last week, WWD reported that the designer is readying a project called GR-Uniforma, due to launch on March 16 in all Dover Street Market stores and the retailer’s web site, according to a manifesto posted on the brand’s site.
“Denim is an important part of the wardrobe of youth today,” said Rubchinskiy. “I remember myself as a teenager in the late Nineties and it was the same. It was the time of Diesel’s first bright and strong advertising campaigns, and the brand’s first shop in Moscow. It was a dream for me to own Diesel denims. Now dreams have come true — I’m more than happy to collaborate with such a great brand!”
The Red Tag x GR-Uniforma collection will be sold exclusively in Dover Street Market stores and through a network of retailers selected by Tomorrow Ltd., the multiservice business accelerator for fashion brands that offers consultancy, sales and distribution, investment,

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Lagerfeld Talks With WWD: Through the Years

The late Karl Lagerfeld had a long-standing relationship with this publication. Here, some memorable quotes.
1969
“I don’t like retrospectives, but the Twenties and Thirties were the last epoch near to us when things were still well made…when there was quality.”
“I like it when people say I am French, but it would be presumptuous for me to say that I am.”
1975
“Overdressing is the greatest mistake. I design layers of clothes so that a woman can handle climate changes gracefully, so that she can add or subtract pieces depending on her whim or the weather, so that she can change her look without changing her entire outfit. My basic premise is to make fashion easier for a woman. Because a woman, especially one who is active and involved and for whom I especially enjoy designing, has to live with her clothes just as easily as she lives with her skin.”
“My life is based on fantasy. I don’t ask myself questions about what I do or what I am. I go by instinct. I follow my feelings.”
“I hate too skinny. My dresses are not for very, very skinny people. There has to be a very feminine shape under them.”
“I never fall in love. I

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Karl Lagerfeld’s Best Chanel Red Carpet Looks of All Time

Karl Lagerfeld has designed no shortage of memorable red carpet looks.
The late Chanel fashion designer was tasked with dressing both his muses, such as Cara Delevingne and Keira Knightley, along with A-list celebrities during awards season, including Emma Stone and Margot Robbie.

Margot Robbie wears Chanel Couture at the 72nd British Academy Film Awards. 
James Veysey/BAFTA/REX/Shutterstock

No stranger to the Met Gala red carpet, Lagerfeld was responsible for the looks for both Yara Shahidi and Lily-Rose Depp’s first times attending the annual costume event. Shahidi, for example, attended her first Met Gala last year wearing a Chanel Couture tulle dress with an intricate full-length beading.

Yara Shahidi wears Chanel at the 2018 Met Gala. 
Matt Baron/REX/Shutterstock

Chanel spokeswomen, Julianne Moore and Marion Cotillard, also have a long history of being dressed in Lagerfeld’s creations. Most notably, Moore picked up her first Academy Award in 2015 wearing a Chanel Couture gown made with 80,000 sequins.

Julianne Moore wears Chanel Couture at the 87th Annual Academy Awards. 
Rob Latour/REX/Shutterstock

Click through the above gallery for more of Karl Lagerfeld’s best Chanel red carpet looks.
Read more on Karl Lagerfeld here: 
The 11 Best Karl Lagerfeld Quotes of All Time
Chanel Names Virginie Viard as Lagerfeld’s Successor
Kim Kardashian, Cindy Crawford, More Honor Karl Lagerfeld
WATCH: A

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Designers Convert Bespoke Designs Into Direct-to-Consumer Fashion at Matches

BE MINE: Matchesfashion.com held an evening of Champagne and cocktails at 5 Carlos Place to mark its Innovators Initiative that saw three emerging designers translate their bespoke designs to direct-to–consumer pieces during London Fashion Week.
Designs by Central Saint Martins student Harris Reed and designers Francis de Lara and Marta Ferri were available for purchase via QR codes.
Reed has already racked up an impressive clientele that includes Harry Styles, Ezra Miller and Solange Knowles for his mixture of rock ‘n’ roll and Edwardian aesthetics, with billowing sleeves, exaggerated cuffs and blouses with silver sequin embellishment.
His pussy-bow metallic blouse and wide-brim sequin hat, both priced at 795 pounds, had sold out by Saturday night.
For Harris, this capsule collection marked the start of a new journey. “This is just a teaser to the world, to show them what I can do,” he said.
De Lara, who reinterprets motifs found in Renaissance paintings into bespoke eyewear, has also commanded a market niche.
“I looked at very traditional Renaissance motifs of serpents, ribbons and teardrops, and integrated them into my eyewear. I imagined Lolita as a Medici heiress debutante.” De Lara’s Eve frames, which are crafted in Italy, are adorned with oval-cut emeralds, tourmaline, cognac diamonds, pink sapphires and 18-karat gold cabochons and retail

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