Rosetta Getty RTW Spring 2018

Rosetta Getty was one of several designers who saw the recent Georgia O’Keeffe exhibition at the Brooklyn Museum and was struck by the artist’s ahead-of-her-time wardrobe. “You really saw how calculated and precise she was in everything she did,” said Getty at her presentation held at her aunt Aileen Getty’s West Village town house. “It’s almost like she understood branding as we do now. She believed in a uniform and a look and staying true to that.”
Getty harnessed the power of O’Keeffe’s signature stylistic proclivities — button-up white shirts, black skirts, wrapped jackets — and tension of austerity and sensuality for the collection. She worked graphic colors and silhouettes in modernist portions that had minimalist intonations but were nowhere near clinical. There was always some extra detail or exaggerated drape or proportion that added a charge of feminine emotion to the garments.
For example, a white cotton poplin shirt had a cape back and was worn with a high-waisted black shantung skirt. A fluid interlock jersey tailored jacket and cropped trousers in scarlet red was modest yet seductive. A cape back trench, buttoned up taffeta shirt and cropped cotton trousers made a big, open-sky statement in monochromatic cornflower blue, which incidentally matched

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Urban Zen RTW Fall 2017

Don’t be fooled by the rich, deep colors and fabrics — a cognac leather jacket, a wild black mixed-fur vest, a black and cognac embroidered velvet caftan — of Donna Karan’s see-now-buy-now Urban Zen collection for fall 2017. She’s been practicing what she’s been preaching for 20 years. “They’re all weightless,” said Karan at the presentation of her newest lineup, shown in a formal presentation to the beats of live jungle drums in her West Village Urban Zen space. “You really have to make clothes right now that go with the weather. I have these very light pieces that you put on top of everything. It’s never like one season or another. It all builds.”
She spoke the truth. Up close everything in the collection, which was merchandized and for sale in her Urban Zen store next door, was lightweight, even the black shearling kimono jacket and suede jodhpurs. Just as the weight of the clothes doesn’t change from season to season, neither does the ethos. Urban Zen is culled from Karan’s world travels, influenced by Haitian artisans and multiday safaris. A tailored riding jacket and rugged riding boots added an aristocratic note to the lineup, but the rest of the

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PH5 Spring 2018

“This season we looked at how humans manipulate nature and we played with the idea of real versus artificial flowers,” PH5 founder Wei Lin and creative director Mijia Zhang both explained.
While flowers are a common subject for designers Lin and Zhang had a particular approach — they created a more conceptual depiction by drawing the linear shapes of the flowers into the cuts and hems of the clothing as seen on a navy ribbed dress with white cutout.
Other standouts include multicolored striped lurex jumpsuits — which they are beginning to be known for — polo dresses, ribbed bodysuits in their “signature” stitch and a great multistitch blue, navy and white dress with ruffled hem which they also offered in a longer version.

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Ji Oh RTW Spring 2018

For the past two seasons, Ji Oh has zeroed in on shirting, one of her most successful categories, working within narrow parameters to bring depth and wearable novelty to her collection. “I really find it fun because it’s more focused,” she said during a preview of her fall lineup.
Deconstructed takes on the classic men’s Oxford shirt have been trending up and down the fashion echelons for a few seasons. Oh’s take was elevated and nuanced beyond anything generic. She worked a black viscose shirt with panels that wrapped in a deconstructed nod to the classic preppy sweater-tied-around-the-shoulders look. Wide striped shirts became asymmetrically buttoned shirtdresses or a skirt with flaps that could button up or down to give dimension and proportion. A crisp white cotton shirt was fully open in the back and a crop top could be worn front to back or back to front to show off cleavage — or a bare back.

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Romona Keveza RTW Spring 2018

For spring, Romona Keveza freshened things up by streamlining her silhouettes and focusing on a tight yet assertive color palette of light blue, black, red, silver and citron. The most memorable dress of the collection was an effortless corseted light blue column that fell below the knee. She continued along those lines with two jumpsuits — a sleek black crepe corseted one and a red Edie Sedgwick-inspired version. In her notes, the designer cited the works of modern artists Jackson Pollock, Joan Miró and Yves Klein, whose influences were perhaps most notable in the graphic cuts of the gowns. Elsewhere, a Frida Kahlo-inspired gown showcased a detachable sleeve and an abstract motif along the bodice, proving that Keveza’s more restrained hand does not mean she is not willing dial it up here and there.

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Maison Margiela Artisanal Pops Up at Maxfield

Maison Margiela Artisanal is popping up at Maxfield on Sept. 8. The installation at the retail emporium’s Jean Prouvé house will showcase 13 looks from the fall “Artisanal” collection, designed by creative director John Galliano. The curated exhibit offers a behind-the-scenes view of Galliano’s creative process for Maison Margiela and transports the viewer to the mason on Rue Saint-Maur, where Galliano works with his team and atelier in an old historic schoolhouse.

Maison Margiela T-shirt for Maxfield 

A Maison Margiela Artisanal spring look. 

The haute couture looks, juxtaposed with inspiration elements from the atelier, explore empowerment and enchantment, as well as the power of looking at the past and present through a lens of transformation, with both handmade tradition and new technologies. Materials include traditional wool, organza, silk and chiffon alongside leather, feathers and crystals. Building on the filtrage method, layering is used to build images. Also used is décortiqué, or the reduction of a garment to its core, and trompe l’oeil elements. The pieces are displayed alongside accessories such as chrome necklaces that emphasize the garment’s necklines and headpieces that trace the profile of the face. Crystal pieces outline the frame of bras and pearls form a cage top.
The exhibition runs until Sept.

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Rachel Rachel Roy to Release ‘Choose Love’ Capsule

CHOOSE LOVE: On Sept. 11, Rachel Rachel Roy will introduce a limited-edition capsule collection, “Choose Love,” whereby 20 percent of all proceeds will be donated to World of Children.
World of Children improves the lives of vulnerable children by funding and elevating the most effective change makers for children worldwide.
The capsule collection features a subtle declaration of love inspired by the Van Gogh quote, “I feel that there is nothing more truly artistic then to love people.” The collection includes a leather bag, cashmere hat and scarf and denim jacket.

Rachel Roy 
Getty Images

The collection will be available exclusively on Rachelroy.com. The leather bag and detachable pouch retails for $198, the cashmere hat with Love embroidery retails for $45, the cashmere scarf with Love embroidery scarf is $68, and the denim jacket is $159.
“The collection is a way of using my voice on a broader scale that love is in need of more love today. More love, more strength, more positivity, more light — these are achievable things that we all are capable of giving more of,” Roy said.

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