Thom Browne’s women’s collection was born directly out of his men’s line. The two are always connected, but some seasons it’s more obvious than others. Resort was one of those occasions. “For me, pre-collections are about taking advantage of what people are getting to know me for, and that’s specifically tailoring,” said Browne, presenting his collection in his newly christened stand-alone women’s store on Hudson Street in New York. To say some of the looks borrowed from the boys would be understating it. A gray blazer over a white shirt dress worn with a gray tie was pretty literal. Ditto a khaki trench over a gray suit with Browne’s famous cropped pants. His classic tailoring makes a strong unisex look.
Where he more obviously feminized, things got more fun as he introduced color, kitsch and incredible fabrications — all house signatures in addition to tailoring. There were fabulous tweeds — ultra light with colorful bits of denim and fur worked in — on jackets, skirts and coats. Browne tweaked Japanese school uniforms in bright madras and madcap layers, and played with preppy lawn sport motifs. A graphic lace, delicate pearl embroidery on a salt-washed cotton blazer, and gold threadwork on a
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