Patrik Ervell Men’s Fall 2017

After a three-season absence, Patrik Ervell returned to the show circuit with a collection that once again celebrated youth subculture — in this case, the early Nineties British rave scene.
The underground references came out loud and clear in a well-edited lineup that included a variety of embroidered pullovers with paneling details, zip-up mock-neck sweaters and cropped sturdy leather pants.
“This is a moment where there’s a romance about the future,” he said backstage. That love affair translated into the use of soft pink — a trend for the season — in sweatshirts and cropped puffers. Also, the use of mohair spoke to the softness of the offering while elevating the collection.
The celebration of the Nineties era seems to be on every designer’s mind this season but Ervell’s expertise on the subject brought a more authentic dimension.
“It’s the future borrowed from the past,” he said.

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02.02.2017No comments
John Elliott Men’s Fall 2017

John Elliott is growing up. The Los Angeles-based designer who has built his reputation as a leader in progressive streetwear over the past five years surprised everyone by opening his fall show with a sharply tailored suit. But pairing the look with a bright yellow nylon hoodie and a zip-up dress shirt brought it back into Elliott’s sensibility.
“The fact that I did tailoring is as far out of my comfort zone as I could have gone,” he said backstage before the show.
Other tailored elements, which were all manufactured in Japan, included topcoats and soft-shoulder blazers worn over snap tear-away warm-up pants.
The bulk of the show consisted of more-familiar silhouettes and treatments. Outerwear remains a hallmark of the brand with mini varsity jackets — reversible with removable sleeves — paneled nylon parkas and a sleek array of Perfecto jackets in purple and black leather.
The show also showcased a couple of collaborations, notably Nike Lab Vandal high-top sneakers that the designer updated by eliminating some padding and adding three straps.
One misstep was the use of ultra-skinny treated denim that felt dated — and not in a good way. The more relaxed silhouettes worked best with the collection’s casual vibe.
An impressive basketball court

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02.02.2017No comments
Paco Rabanne Pre-Fall 2017

Julien Dossena explored new territories like office wear, combining — in his “generic redesign” of classics — technical materials like Japanese wools with traditional and featherweight Super 100 wools used in men’s tailoring. The focus was less on fashion, more on wearability. This city type still has a strong sense of style, though.
Variations on the suit included relaxed, long-cut gingham jackets worn with matching shorts and cotton shirts with hoods. A ribbed beige jersey dress with removable sleeves, twisting sensually on the body, was as snug as a sweater.
Neoclassics to keep included a perfectly cut, tailored camel coat with subtle design details such as inside-outside construction seams and a removable teddy-jacket collar lining the lapels.
Stripped of hardware save for signature eyelet details, a classic Seventies-style trench in an unexpected material sported Velcro closures.
Also in the technical camp, an oversizd silver cotton cagoule-dress — “a bit like what delivery guys on scooters wear” — was super cool, worn with minimalist wedge boots in silver and cognac leather.
The designer also used the house’s signature metal mesh as a contrast strap accent on pretty silk Liberty-print dresses with a Seventies vibe.

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02.02.2017No comments