Jill Newman

Yvonne Orji of ‘Insecure’ sits front row at Naeem Khan.

Spring’s most effortlessly cool fashion, set against Harlem’s rich history and fast-changing present.

Your front row view, no ticket required.

Inside the burgeoning world of “posh pusher” apparel.

Speaking of his collaboration with luxury footwear brand Santoni, Marco Zanini said he felt the “need for a small, quality project, rather than a pressure to perform.”
To be sure, the collection was focused and luxurious. “We wanted to expand Santoni’s expertise and excellence to other categories,” explained Zanini, who was previously Schiaparelli’s creative director. He underscored that this was not a total look, but just “an initial nucleus that can be expanded in any direction, also in design.”
The outerwear lineup included a double-breasted, double-faced coat; a beaver coat with technical inserts inside, and a satin duster. Zanini opted for alpaca, exclusive Japanese wools and cottons, camel hair, cashmere, silk satin and treated shearling beaver. Touches of pink, yellow and turquoise lit up shades of classic blue, black, burgundy, camel brown and ink. “These are garments with no expiration date,” he said.
Among the standout shoes, there were sturdy lace-ups and pumps fastened with elastic bands.
Chief executive offer Giuseppe Santoni said the collection responded to the needs of the brand’s customers, who have been requesting an extension into other categories.

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Attico’s presentation in a Milanese apartment had the aura of a happening. As Eighties pop blared from speakers, models and “It” girls mingled wearing the brand’s Instagram-friendly designs, while waiters passed around trays of drinks.
It should come as no surprise. The founders of the label, whose name translates as “penthouse” in English, are street style stars Giorgia Tordini and Gilda Ambrosio, and where they go, the stylish set follows. Their third collection was inspired by the complex female characters in Pedro Almodóvar’s movies, and the outfits were suitably flamboyant.
The duo’s signature wrap dresses came in myriad versions: one was covered in multicolored sequined stripes, while another combined a zebra pattern with a print of red tulips. Classic wardrobe items like a camel coat or a smoking jacket were embroidered with fantastic animals like dragons and unicorns.
Several of the looks merrily crossed the border into pure kitsch — to wit, a crushed velvet lilac dress with a shaved paisley motif. No matter: These clothes are not for the faint-hearted. Rather, each item had the one-of-a-kind feel of a vintage find, and demanded to be worn with a nonchalant attitude.

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The name of this collection was “Dissolve,” and backstage following the show, the Japanese designer said he was thinking about light diffusing through a crystal, and the many colors it creates. There certainly was a lot of color in this collection, including a breezy satin patchwork shirt — in deep purple and green — worn with a bright red skirt; a pair of green salopettes layered over an orange turtleneck, and a furry red and black coat punctuated with big white dots.
It was a big collection, heavy on outerwear, with no real pattern or logic. Color was a big theme, but so was raw-edged denim, as in (yet another) pair of salopettes that came with a matching, tucked-in denim jacket. There were bits of ath-leisure, too, in the form of a coral track suit with a thick silver stripe down the leg. There were piles of coats — long and short — done in shiny plum or olive technical fabrics, some quilted, others padded.
There was a handful of nice pieces here, including a silvery white bomber jacket with a big blue star on the back, and some long patchwork trenches. One was done in shades of camel and caramel, while a navy

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OSMANNORO, Italy — Fulvio Rigoni is unflinching.
His clear ideas about the Salvatore Ferragamo woman’s look secured him the role of women’s ready-to-wear design director at the storied Florence-based house after working with former creative director Massimiliano Giornetti, who exited the company last March. Rigoni joined Ferragamo in September 2015 after runs at Prada, Gucci, Jil Sander and, most recently, Christian Dior, where he designed both rtw and haute couture.
Greeting WWD at Ferragamo’s Osmannoro factory ahead of the fall show, which will take place in Milan on Feb. 26, it is clear that Rigoni is methodical and organized. Notes about the collection are precisely typed up, his mood board on one side, his sketches on another and photographs of the looks neatly divided by categories on a desk.
“I was asking myself about the meaning of beauty and I found the answer in this Serge Lutens image,” said Rigoni, pointing to a TV advertising campaign for Jun Ropé from 1978. “It’s extremely refined, very chic and very rich but also outside the schemes, almost experimental.” The photo shows a veiled woman and a younger man. “Beauty is all of the above for me, far from anything too harmonic and precise in proportions.

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