Mira Mikati’s fall collection took the utilitarian, military-infused aesthetic of scouting and mashed it up with the technicolor world of disco. “My production manager is on the verge of a breakdown,” the designer quipped as she showed off a lineup of looks featuring a myriad of whimsical details, including patches, embroidered slogans, cartoon animals, sequins, glitter and more sequins. Scouting songs were stitched on several pieces. From ponchos to field jackets to hoodies, every piece seemed to have at least one rainbow on it. Gay young men are allowed to be Boy Scouts now, after all.

Mikati said she was inspired by the Wes Anderson film “Moonrise Kingdom,” “but if everyone had just stayed and threw a big party at the end,” she added.

Mikati has established herself as a childlike, wonder-filled brand of fashion, but her collection seemed particularly relevant in a season when some of fashion’s biggest houses leaned ever-further into ornamentalism and whimsy.

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The Y’s collection has always been about women dressing in men’s clothing, albeit with adapted cuts, but Yohji Yamamoto wanted to take the concept further than ever for fall in a collection that was described as transgender.
As such, a boxy outsize jumpsuit that came in camouflage wool had definite street appeal, while a cream and white wide-weave coat, with its huge collar, made for major dimensional play. As was to be expected, there was lots of minimal black and white, as on a range of baggy shirts in different shapes, but navy blue was also key. Among the standouts were extra wide-leg pants in an indigo jacquard with a camouflage pattern and a navy and black trompe l’oeil cross between a suit jacket and a top.
When it came to prints, the design team had painted a canvas in shades of sludgy green, photographed and pixelated it so it looked almost like a work by Monet and used it on several shirts and an asymmetric pinafore dress.
As for the vintage-inspired Y’s Pink selection, there were a few feminine references that were notable, such as pretty wrap skirts fashioned from traditional Russian scarves and toughened up with black leather kilt-fastener details and a

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Wang Chen Tsai-Hsia continued to steer Shiatzy Chen on its neo-Chinese-chic-meets-West path, juxtaposing handcraft-intensive embellishments with sporty silhouettes accessorized with hiking boots.
Classical motifs from the East and West that meandered between rococo flourishes and rich Chinese embroideries, cohabited on the contemporary silhouettes.
The more elaborate looks included a silk jacquard gown dancing with dragon and lion motifs that was designed in China and woven in Italy, which the designer paired with a shrunken baseball jacket with an embroidered dragon on the back.
A run of white lace looks tricked out with bows and court sleeves paled a bit in comparison. The buttery red leather dresses with ruffles worn with embroidered over-the-knee boots bridged the themes better.
Standouts included the bordeaux and dark gold Lurex parkas that brought subtle shine into the mix, a pastel silk cocoon coat with a lovely Chinese embroidery of a tree on the back and a bottle-green dress with a gold print that formed the perfect balance between the two distant worlds.

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The shapewear boom spawned several lines, but Spanx still owns the market when it comes to brand recognition.
Sara Blakely, Spanx’s founder, used her perky personality, rags-to-riches story and an endorsement from Oprah Winfrey to push the body-slimming product into women’s wardrobes and the pop-culture lexicon.
But there’s a Brazilian shapewear brand with another easy-to-remember, one-syllable name that’s beginning to gain traction in the U.S. market.
Enter Squeem, which was founded in 1936 by Antoine Pasos and launched in the U.S. in 2010. Pasos great grandson, Thiago Pasos, is running the business in the States and, much like other shapewear brands, has found himself in a precarious place given the body inclusivity narrative that’s percolating through fashion. According to The NPD Group, shapewear sales in the U.S. declined by double digits in 2016 to $604 million.
“The shapewear industry is in a dilemma with the body-positivity movement,” said Pasos, who is based in Orlando and joined the family business as chief executive officer in 2015. “But in our case, it’s something that has helped us a lot because we were always about loving who you are and highlighting your attributes.”
Pasos says he’s been able to appeal to retailers, consumers and celebrity stylists with sexy

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FLOWER POWER: Ralph Lauren’s nomad-themed fashion collection journeyed to Paris, where it was celebrated Monday night at a sit-down dinner hosted by Tatiana Casiraghi and Dana Alikhani.
The setting was the brand’s stately flagship on Boulevard Saint-Germain, which was festooned with flowers, reminiscent of the see-now-buy-now catwalk display Ralph Lauren put on for the line in February in New York with the backdrop of some 100,000 orchids.
“It’s a brand we love,” Casiraghi said. “And specifically this collection — the nomad collection — ties in well with our aesthetic and our idea of travel.”
This year, she and Alikhani are celebrating the fifth anniversary of Muzungu Sisters, which is their online fair-trade marketplace. “We’re doing a collaboration with a children’s wear brand that we’re launching soon,” Casiraghi continued.
Alongside increasing its offering for kids, the site will be adding more men’s wear and developing its main line. “Our idea is to continue building on our relationships with our existing artisans, and maybe looking for talent closer to home,” said Alikhani, referring to London.
“When we launched the collection, Tatiana and I were both able to travel several times a year, to India [or] Morocco to source items. And since then we’ve both had two children,

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The faux fur flew at Miu Miu (some real stuff, too). It was everywhere. Every inch of the entryway, the benches, pillars and the grand staircase in the Palais d’Iéna was covered in fake purple fur. The crux of the collection was daffy, wildly oversize furry coats and coat collars, punctuated by fur rain hats and bubble newsboy caps and flat fur boots in cartoon colors — demonstrative blue, purple, green and yellow. It gave you a warm, fuzzy feeling, and not just texturally. The lineup, with its emphasis on happy hues and exaggerated feminine silhouettes, many of them strung with rhinestones and crystals galore, tilted toward the Seventies. At least on the surface level, it read as great fashion in a very good mood.
After the show, Miuccia Prada tried to position her message a bit differently. “It’s about the madness of glamour in this time, in front of a very uncertain future,” she said, clearly referencing the pivotal political moment that’s upon us. She said something similarly heavy after last season’s show, a delightful beach romp full of adorable retro swimwear and fabulous fur robes. Both times, the attempts to frame the collection politically or intellectually didn’t change or subvert the fact that at face value her designs

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GOING COCO: The venue on Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré for this season’s Americans in Paris showroom was of appropriate significance — Gabrielle Chanel was a former resident of the first-floor apartment.
Nine designers participated in the 12th round of the showcase, backed by the Council of Fashion Designers of America and Vogue. All were newcomers to the event this season.
“This is Coco Chanel’s old apartment, it’s just amazing,” enthused Beckett Fogg, one half of design duo Area.
The brand has seen a lot of excitement this week over its accessories after both Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid were spotted wearing its jewelry out and about in Paris. “The accessories have been really popular with the celebs,” said codesigner Piotrek Panszczyk. “It’s really been helping, as people have been recognizing them as they are walking through. It’s been a great opportunity for us.”
Laurence Chandler, one half of men’s “elevated skate” label Rochambeau, said the brand was also benefiting from showing during women’s collections in Paris, he said, and had dressed influencers such as Georgia Fowler and Jourdan Dunn for the occasion. “It’s been cool to dress women, we like the idea of women wearing our clothing,” he said.
Rochambeau’s eye-catching plaid coat with a splash

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ACTIVE INDOORS: Ivivva already outfits the active girl, so why not help her with her room?
The Lululemon Athletica Inc.-owned brand has teamed with Williams-Sonoma Inc.’s PBteen brand for a new capsule set to go on sale in July. Ivivva for PBteen totals more than 40 pieces, including bedding, furniture, decor, desk accessories, a ballet barre and boards to note goals. The collection is aimed at the tween and teen markets. Prints from Ivivva’s fall collection were infused into the capsule.
The collection will be sold in PBteen stores and its online site, with select pieces sold in some Ivivva stores and the activewear brand’s own online store.
The two businesses — this marks the first time they’ve worked together — share similar customer bases, according to PBteen head of design Allison Spampanato. Whether the collaboration will serve to bring new customers to both brands or boost sales remains to be seen. The point of the collection, Spampanato said, was “focusing on both tweens and teens” and “our goal here was to really create spaces that are ideal for active teens.”
The deal with Ivivva follows PBteen’s collaboration with the designer and stylist duo Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, who are in the process

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PURPLE HAZE: Guests arriving at the Miu Miu show on Tuesday were greeted by a furry purple interior to match their invitation, with the building’s walls, pillars and stairs entirely covered in the stuff.
“I like the fluffy, I’d probably have it in orange myself,” said Lara Stone.
“It’s really soft and quite hairy,” said actress Stacy Martin, the face of Miu Miu L’Eau Bleue​​, who has just finished filming the Michel Hazanavicius-helmed feature “Redoutable” and is preparing for Brady Corbet’s “Vox Lux,” where she will star alongside Rooney Mara and Jude Law.
“I love it so much, it makes me want to stroke it,” cooed Dianna Agron whose latest project, “Novitiate,” was bought at Sundance and will be premiering later this year. “It’s about nuns. It follows the process towards committing yourself fully to being a nun. I’m fascinated about the subject of faith, and what drives people to different forms. I grew up Jewish, so for me it was really interesting to get in this mind-set. But the wardrobe really helps with a project like this, because it’s very restrictive.”
Her costar Rebecca Dayan was also at the show. “The atmosphere was really powerful because we were filming in a place in Nashville that

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