JW Anderson Looks to Eighties Gilbert & George for Spring 2019 Capsule

LONDON — Jonathan Anderson is looking to the Eighties works of Gilbert & George, and specifically their early street shots of East End boys, for a men’s and women’s capsule that will launch Dec. 3 at Matchesfashion.com.
JW Anderson x Gilbert & George is part of the designer’s spring/summer 2019 collection and is meant to celebrate the artists, their take on masculinity and British modern life. Anderson has focused on three of his favorite works by the artistic duo: “Guard Plants” (1980), “Dog Boy” (1980) and “Heavy” (1988).
Gilbert & George’s candid shots of “normal” kids on the streets of London’s East End helped to make them famous, and by the end of the decade, works such as Heavy had become more stylized and reflective of the duo’s love of William Blake’s poetry.
“Guard Plants” shows the face of a boy in military-style uniform framed by leaves and vines in intense primary colors, while “Dog Boy” is a black-and-white shot of a teenage kid flanked by rows of flowers in full bloom. “Heavy” shows three dreamy young men floating in the sky with hair that looks as if it’s on fire.
 

JW Anderson x Gilbert & George 
Alasdair McLellan

 
Anderson said he wanted the collection to capture

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03.12.2018No comments
Tensions Flare Between Calvin Klein, Raf Simons

Could the grand Raf Simons experiment at Calvin Klein Inc. be in jeopardy?
Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief executive officer of PVH Corp., parent company of Calvin Klein, last week stated for the first time — and in unusually blunt terms, even for an executive known for being a straight-shooter — that the reimagined Calvin Klein isn’t clicking.
“While many of the product categories performed well, we are disappointed by the lack of return on our investments in our Calvin Klein 205W39NYC halo business and believe that some of the Calvin Klein Jeans’ relaunched product was too elevated and did not sell through as well as we planned,” Chirico said as the group released third-quarter results. He vowed to quickly implement a new, more commercial direction for the iconic American brand.
Describing Simons’ overhaul of Calvin Klein Jeans, Chirico said, “From a product perspective, we went too far, too fast on both fashion and price. We are working on fixing this fashion miss, and we believe that our CK Jeans offering will be much more commercial and fashion-right beginning in 2019, especially for the fall 2019 season.”
Chirico’s statements highlighted the gulf that often exists between critical acclaim and commercial realities, and the complex relationship

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03.12.2018No comments
EXCLUSIVE: Delpozo Confirms Lutz Huelle’s Appointment

MILAN — “It won’t be about reinventing the brand,” said Lutz Huelle, during his first interview as the newly appointed creative director of Madrid-based luxury label Delpozo. “The most important thing for me is to preserve what made Delpozo so wonderful.”
As WWD exclusively reported last week, Spanish company Grupo Perfumes y Diseño, which has managed Delpozo’s perfume license since 1992 and bought the whole fashion house in 2011, hired the German designer to succeed former creative director Josep Font, who exited the brand in September. Font was tapped in 2012 to revitalize the label, founded by Jesus Delpozo in 1974.
“We are very excited to start this new chapter with Lutz,” said Delpozo general manager Pablo Badia in a telephone interview. “We basically chose him because of his experience and skills, which he demonstrated with his own line.”
A Central Saint Martins graduate, Huelle cut his teeth at Maison Martin Margiela, which he joined in 1995 and where he became responsible for the development of the knitwear and Artisanal lines. In 2000, the German designer established his own brand, called Lutz, which was renamed Lutz Huelle in 2012. A recipient of the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award in 2001, Huelle, who regularly shows his collection

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03.12.2018No comments