LONDON — The streetwear market is not going away anytime soon.
While many designers known for their streetwear might be moving toward more sophisticated, tailoring-heavy collections, lines of excited teenagers are still snaking their way through Soho here, which is home to Palace and Supreme. Resale prices for limited-edition sneakers keep climbing and a new concept store, The Collection, made its debut last month, offering rare, or limited-edition streetwear, at prices ranging from 10 pounds to 10,000 pounds.
Another new label, Pacifism, makes its market debut this week with a different proposal: Seasonless, more refined streetwear at contemporary price points.
“A wide spectrum of brands have all been influenced by streetwear and the men’s wear scene is growing at an exponential rate,” said Pacifism’s founder Talal Hizami, who has business and wholesale backgrounds, but is self-taught when it comes to design.
“I’m always looking for brands that combine streetwear elements with a high level of design, but struggled to find any that were accessible in terms of wearability and affordability. As a creative, I wanted to set out to offer products and garments with a designer attitude at a more accessible price point. As a consumer, I always shied away from hype in the

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LONDON — Outside the 19th-century Union Chapel in Islington, a Gothic Revival building, the first thing that appeared at Monday night’s memorial service for Judy Blame was a black carriage filled with white lilies led by two black horses.
Industry veterans and friends of the late stylist, jewelry designer and artist — including Juergen Teller, Vivienne Westwood, Stephen Jones, Lulu Kennedy, Gareth Pugh, Jefferson Hack, Suzy Menkes and Jonathan Newhouse — gathered one year after Blame’s death, in February 2018, at the age of 58. Many of them were wearing their favorite Judy Blame jewelry.
Known as a man of many trades, Blame ran underground clubs in London and later segued into styling, where he worked with a range of talents including Boy George, Neneh Cherry, John Galliano and Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton. He was also known for his outlandish jewelry designs made from artifacts that he dredged up from the mud of the Thames. He was a punk to his core.
A program — and a newspaper filled with images of Blame, who was born Christopher Barnes — were handed out at the entrance to the chapel. In true London style, there was also Blame merchandise on sale, badges for 10

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A NIGHT IN ROME: Maria Grazia Chiuri has long been passionate about dance — as was Christian Dior himself. Following her spring ready-to-wear 2019 show for Dior, centered on that specific form of art, Chiuri has created the costumes for the “Nuit Blanche” ballet to be held at the Teatro Costanzi in Rome as part of a tribute to American composer Philip Glass.
The program comprises three ballets performed by the dancers and orchestra of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera and scheduled from March 29 to April 2, with a special cocktail and preview event on March 28 to be attended by Chiuri and Dior president and chief executive officer Pietro Beccari.
The  performances will kick off with “Hearts & Arrows” with choreography by Benjamin Millepied, followed by “Glass Pieces” with choreography by Jerome Robbins, and “Nuit Blanche” choreographed by Sébastien Bertaud. For the occasion, étoile Eleonora Abbagnato, director of the ballet corp of Rome’s Teatro dell’Opera and an étoile at the Opéra National de Paris, will dance with étoile Friedemann Vogel in “Nuit Blanche.”
“I have admired Eleonora Abbagnato for years. She is an extraordinary artist who has worked hard to reach her goals,” Chiuri said of accepting the dancer’s offer. “She is a great source of inspiration for a new generation

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PARIS — It’s not about the journey, it’s about the destination, said buyers and talent scouts at the latest session of women’s wear trade shows Tranoï and Woman in Paris.
On Saturday, despite continued “gilets jaunes” protests, business went on unimpeded. “Some buyers opted out of Saturday appointments,” said Jennifer Behr, who has been presenting her hair accessory range (of “Gossip Girl” headband craze fame) at Tranoï’s Carrousel du Louvre location for over six years. “But despite expecting it to be low, foot traffic was steady.”
Likewise, the Sunday closure of the city’s first to fourth arrondissements for the “Paris Respire” (“Paris Breathes,” in French) operation to alleviate traffic-generation pollution seemed to have little impact.
Authorities and organizers had taken steps to ensure awareness. “Ahead of the season, the Paris mayor’s office and I have sent out a letter to buyers, via the trade shows, to wish them a warm welcome in Paris,” said Pierre-François Le Louët, president of the Fédération Française du Prêt à Porter Féminin, the body representing the business interests of French ready-to-wear brands, as he took a tour of Woman on Saturday.
Visitors had been forewarned and taken precautions. Buyers heading underground to the Carrousel du Louvre location of Tranoï

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