Julien Dossena stuck to his pre-season tradition of taking the label’s spirit into easier territory for a broader audience, building a lightweight, stretchable and stylish collection.
He toned down the disco vibe of recent collections a notch, but, ever-imaginative, brought in new sources of shine. Set at an angle, vertical stripes added a layer of sophistication to a body-hugging Ziggy Stardust-inspired Lurex pantsuit. A long, navy-blue knit dress projected a different kind of metallic stripe, paint roller-style this time, with a grunge effect.
And a flowing, black crepe de chine skirt with matching top was laden with a thick layer of shimmery gray fabric paint with a rubbery feel, as if the pieces had been dipped into a pot of gooey, plastic silver.
The French designer embellished a series of fitted, see-through dresses, skirts and trousers in solid black or light peach, with small metal studs, intended for layering. Using fabrics like jersey in his quest to create a bridge between dressing for evenings and daytime all at once, he also employed silver mesh, a mainstay of the label, to fashion one of the more elegant pieces: a spiraled skirt with a slit and no lining.
“I hate lining because it adds weight, it’s
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