Marine Serre may very well be the new model for what a designer starting her own brand in today’s complex fashion/geo-political/digital/hyperconnected world. It’s not enough to bring just good designs to the table, so Serre showed up, just two years ago, ready to engage on all relevant levels. She had logo-ready iconography; references to sport, street and societal/cultural awareness, and ideas on how to confront the fashion’s eco system of excess and waste in a proactive way. She also had very good designs.
Serre’s spring collection marked an expansion and escalation of strategy. Aesthetically the lineup, titled Hardcore Couture, reinforced the scarf-dressing, silk moire turned sporty, crescent moon motifs and upcycling of her past shows, with a Formula 1 theme as an access point to new decorative motifs and riffs on racing gear. The show also introduced four new lines within the main collection: Gold Line, which show notes described as “avant-garde ready-to-wear”; Green Line, “upcycled eco-futurism,” assembled from preexisting product; White line, “core brand rtw,” which included collabs with Trylex, Nike, Converse and Melissa, and finally Red Line, which is “couture.” The terms calls for a second set of quotation marks since Serre’s definition of couture adheres to the notion
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