“The idea was, kind of take out the noise,” Jonathan Anderson said backstage after his Loewe show. “I wanted something which was like, you know, we’re leaving noise and [embracing] calmness, and kind of comfortable…grounded.” Exactly what noise he wanted to extract — whether that of political statements on the runway, or luxury chasing street, or the obsessive zeal for Millennial affirmation — he didn’t say.
He didn’t have to. Anderson’s show said it all, populated by young women who looked as real-world comely as is possible within their runway-model demographic.
It was one of the season’s strongest shows so far and reminded that beautiful, well thought-out clothes crafted in careful consideration of the women who will ultimately buy and wear them are clothes with noble purpose. In that regard, while watching Anderson’s parade pass, the thought struck that he could fill the void created by Phoebe Philo’s absence — a void that has left countless devotees of hers wondering, “what will we wear?” Anderson obviously can’t engage in the powerful woman-to-woman dialogue that marked Philo’s Céline tenure. He can let his clothes speak for him.
For fall, with the noise extracted, they spoke volumes. The first look out triggered the Phoebe comparison.
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