Fashion News

JURY DUTY: Bertrand Guyon, creative director of Maison Schiaparelli, is to preside over the fashion jury of the 32nd edition of the International Festival of Fashion and Photography, set to take place from April 27 to May 1 in Hyères, France.
Shoe designer Pierre Hardy will head the jury for the festival’s newly created accessories prize, while British fashion photographer Tim Walker will take the lead for photography.
Guyon tapped an international panel to serve on the fashion jury, including stylist Camille Bidault-Waddington, French journalist Sophie Fontanel, London-based jewelry designer Sabine Getty and American actress Melissa George. Other members are Laure Hériard-Dubreuil, founder and director of The Webster in Miami; journalist Simone Marchetti of La Repubblica; Murielle Lemoine, director of Maison Lesage; Milan-based curator Cloé Perrone, and New York photographer Max Vadukul.
Notable participants on the accessories jury include Laurence Reulet, jewelry director for Hermès, and the television journalist and cashmere designer Alexandra Golovanoff.
The festival has been a launchpad for many fashion designers, including Paco Rabanne’s Julien Dossena, Viktor & Rolf, Christian Wijnants, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Anthony Vaccarello.
Festival director Jean-Pierre Blanc announced the lineup during a press conference and party at the Maison Schiaparelli on Place Vendôme. Designs and photographs from the young contenders

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The label’s fall/winter 2017 menswear collection highlights inclusivity and confronts literal stereotypes of the Nerd, the Bro, and even the Bouncer. Question is: Is Demna Gvasalia (still) trolling us?

The signing of an executive order by President Donald Trump to withdraw the US from the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) could lose the country’s footwear industry over half a billion dollars a year, industry associations say.

Best-known for its strong music and healthcare industries, the city of Nashville is also poised to become a key player in the US fashion industry, according to a new report released today (25 January).

US speciality retailer Gap Inc has revealed Andi Owen, global brand president of its Banana Republic division, is to leave the company after agreeing with CEO Art Peck, now is an “appropriate time for a change in leadership”.

Apparel giant PVH Corp has inked a deal with Marcraft Clothes Inc to buy the licensed Tommy Hilfiger men’s tailored clothing business for North America.

A new GBP30,000 (US$37,700) initiative to help tackle the skill shortage in the UK’s fashion industry has been launched in West Yorkshire, the region identified as the most condensed area for textile manufacturing in the UK.

Samuel Drira’s multifunctional approach to dressing was less literal for pre-fall, focusing more on structure. His pared-back, contemporary interpretation of military themes was worked in an earthy palette of greens, browns, orange and beige and in a contrast between rounded, cocoon-like forms and sharper lines.
Egg-shaped coats in boiled wool ballooned out at the elbows, mirroring their overall silhouette, while zip features opened up the side of tailored wool jackets, offering  practical and aesthetic opportunities. Rivets and elastic loops reminiscent of parachute gear and outsized flap pockets contrasted with the softness of certain designs. A khaki wool skirt cut to look like an Army coat from behind flapped over the front as the model walked, adding interest to an otherwise utilitarian shape.
Knitwear went along with the theme, as in a long khaki column dress with a ribbed panel that could be worn loose and draped or zipped around the waist like a cozy corset alternative.
Drira introduced his singular vision to eveningwear, inspired by the idea of offering Tilda Swinton — whom he said has become a fan of the understated label — something to wear on the red carpet. One example was a versatile black crêpe column gown with snap fasteners across the back

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Ingie Chalhoub strolled the footpaths of a winter garden for pre-fall, taking her inspiration from seasonal flora and working it into her motifs and color scheme. A beautiful Art Nouveau-style jacquard, with its black background and motifs in celadon green, coral pink, blue and gold, brought the collection together, and was worked in a range of shapes including a tailored coat and pants and a strapless cocktail dress.
The kaftan, an Ingie Paris signature, was reinterpreted in celadon or coral silk crêpe as a palazzo pant and flowing jacket combo with slit sleeve and a pearl button, a recurring feature punctuating the collection as a whole, and paired with a matching turban for a Seventies boudoir feel.
Chalhoub upped the glitz in several sequined items for evening — particularly appealing in deep forest green — and added glitter with two-tone Lurex metallic threads on chiffon blouses, dresses and long skirts, in an exclusive knit in burgundy, black and white with a tweed effect worked into a long cardigan coat with a fluid collar.
More minimal crêpe pieces completed the ensemble in a palette of burgundy and deep green, as in a simple yet elegant caped shift dress with a subtle ruffle on the shoulder.
For

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Creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga is closing his adventure at Jil Sander on a chic note. The designer, who will be succeeded by Lucie and Luke Maier after the women’s runway show next month, delivered an elegant, pretty pre-fall collection. Rooted in the brand’s signature minimalist approach, he filled the lineup with staples that showed both a unisex attitude and an extremely feminine, yet discreet and intellectual femininity. Cashmere coats, also shown with mohair touches, were cut in clean silhouettes, cotton shirts were designed as maxi Ts embellished with macro pockets, while pants, crafted from Japanese fabrics with a paper-like hand, featured wide legs. Paglialunga used leather for a super-soft trench coat, while a shearling jacket had an oversized fit. Silk dresses injected with an effortless sophistication revealed drapes that created functional pockets; knitted frocks were fluid and relaxed, and a dress cinched at the waist with a coordinated belt was made of a technical fabric with metallic gold coating for a touch of eccentricity. Everything conveyed a sense of comfort combined with an essential design and luxurious materials.

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