For the spring couture shows, designers offered different takes on tailoring — proving that even high fashion can be borrowed from the boys.
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Is New York becoming a fashion ghost town?
Not quite. There are roughly 150 shows on the fall 2017 official schedule after all. But nowhere is fashion’s state of flux more evident than in New York. In the last week, two of the creative pillars of the New York shows — Rodarte and Proenza Schouler — revealed plans to recalibrate their collections to the January and July couture schedule, showing only two times a year in Paris beginning for spring 2018. Hood by Air and Vera Wang are also headed to the City of Light for fall 2017, Wang showing in tandem with her French Legion of Honor award.
Add to that the fact that Opening Ceremony opted out of New York Fashion Week this year, showing its see-now-buy-now collection at Lincoln Center on Jan. 28 via a collaboration with the New York City Ballet. Then there’s Tommy Hilfiger, Rebecca Minkoff and Rachel Comey, all of which are showing in Los Angeles rather than New York, at least for the fall 2017 season.
Where does this leave New York Fashion Week? Will more designers stray from the American fashion capital?
Rodarte and Proenza Schouler both stated that their decisions to move were business-driven, echoing
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Kenzo continues its eccentric, cerebral bent with the unveiling of its spring campaign.
Creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have cast a troop of vivacious entertainers, including actress Tracee Ellis Ross, actor Jesse Williams and musician Kelsey Lu.
They have been photographed by the Los Angeles-based twin duo Jalan and Jibril Durimel, jointly referred to as Durimel. The Kenzo job marks their first global campaign.
Durimel’s images will be accompanied by a short, original film written and directed by Grammy nominee, Kahlil Joseph — who led the creative team for Beyoncé’s “Lemonade” HBO spectacular. The short — Joseph’s second work for Kenzo — is scheduled to premiere in Los Angeles on Feb. 9 in the lead-up to the Grammy Awards. It is set to be titled “Music Is My Mistress,” and marks Lu’s acting debut.
The campaign images will launch in the March issues of magazines including Vogue; T, the New York Times magazine, and Wallpaper.
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The US government is considering imposing tariffs on 85 European imports – including viscose rayon staple fibre – in retaliation for what is says is the EU’s discrimination and ban on American beef products.
The executive order signed by president Donald Trump on Friday (27 January) banning people from seven majority-Muslim nations from entering the US, has been criticised by Nike chief executive Mark Parker.
The US athletic footwear industry grew by 3% in 2016, generating US$17.5bn despite a turbulent fourth quarter, but the year will still go down as “slightly below average” thanks in the main to the sports retail landscape over the last 12 months.
Plans mooted by the Trump administration to impose tariffs on imports from Mexico have escalated tensions between the two countries, although there is confusion over the exact nature of the proposals.
Retail sales volumes fell unexpectedly in the year to January following robust increases over the final quarter of 2016 – but growth is expected to return next month, figures show.
Luke Tadashi and Tommy Nowels, the California natives who design Bristol, drew from a few sources for their collection, which is new to the New York Men’s Day schedule. The NBA was the primary reference and Tadashi said Kobe Bryant, Tracy McGrady and Allen Iverson’s off-court style during the early Aughts influenced the line, as did rules and restrictions, specifically the rules that players were forced to abide by when the NBA established a dress code in 2005.
“These rules stripped players of their personal identities, but they also improved the way they dressed,” Tadashi said. “Many times when we are given constraints, we get more creative.”
The looks hit on the notes that are trending within streetwear — velour, bomber jackets and matching monochromatic sets — but what felt fresh were the cropped tartan pants, the shearling-collar coat with red racing stripes, and the dusty color palette, which was influenced by California landscapes. Also interesting was their use of fabrics, which were all Japanese. The Tito suit, which consisted of a bowling shirt and matching cropped pants, was made from linen while a classic sweatsuit style was reimagined in terry cloth and updated with pin tuck pants.
Tadashi and Nowels, who won Gen Art’s
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Uri Minkoff’s love affair with the urban commuter continued for fall with a lineup that effortlessly blended a tailored aesthetic with technical fabrics and detailing.
“It’s all about the modern commuter — the highs and lows, the stresses and relaxation, being part of a group but being alone,” he said.
That translated into a lineup of stretch wool and cotton fabrics in everything from houndstooth and Prince of Wales patterns to a new double-breasted suit model with a low two-button stance in burgundy corduroy and leather puffers with cross-protection panels and bright blue stripes on the venting that added a sense of utility and upped the fashion quotient.
Minkoff drove home the point by using an eclectic group of models — from Berlin club kids to actual bike messengers who showed their cycling skills — and the pop colors on the bottom of their shoes — on Tribe bikes Minkoff collaborated with to use in the presentation.
Another cycling reference came in the zip-up tight-fitting sweaters with removable sleeves and pants that were cropped enough to avoid the inevitable bike grease.
Accessories, still a core of the line, were shown in everything from cross-body bags and briefcases to a smaller and higher luggage shape.
Minkoff also took the opportunity to
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