Private equity firm Sycamore Partners has acquired The Limited’s brand and other related intellectual property assets.US$26.8m bid.
Geometry served as the starting point for Piazza Sempione’s fall collection, which was designed by the brand’s fashion team. Stripes and checks took center stage in the lineup, which offered an effortlessly elegant around-the-clock wardrobe for busy women. A cool cashmere parka worked in a white and beige striped pattern and embellished with a fox fur hood was worn with roomy pants and a turtleneck sweater that had a casual chic attitude. A color-blocked jacket with shearling details, as well as in a soft Prince of Wales alpaca coat, had the same laid-back vibe. The brand’s traditional femininity, infused here with a pragmatic feel, was also evident in the evening options, such as a Lurex top worn with coordinated pants, as well as a fluid, slightly oversize white tuxedo.
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Gabriele Colangelo updated Giada’s signature minimalistic and rigorous aesthetic with charming new softness and lightness.
The elegant lineup conveyed a sense of discreet luxury, thanks to a combination of sophisticated designs and high-end materials. Layering created new silhouettes with draped tops matched with plissé knitted maxiskirts worn under short wrap skirts embellished with pins in the shape of elegant orchids. Plissé also injected a sense of dynamism into the featherweight chiffon dresses worn with fluid pants, while an impeccable sartorial approach was evident in the slightly oversize suits with asymmetric lapels.
The collection’s soft touch was enhanced by the introduction of mohair, crafted for cozy turtleneck sweaters and tunic dresses.
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“Notte is an extension of the Marchesa line; it’s actually an easier take on that,” explained creative directors Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. They noted that both collections had a common theme — Imperial China. The designers didn’t take the inspiration too literally, looking to the opulence of the era for the exquisite details embellishing the elegant lineups. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes were crafted in a polka-dot tulle and in a chiffon gown incorporating a corset. Ruffled tulle floor-length designs were encrusted with crystals for sparkling light effects. Other looks included romantic embroideries of butterflies, as well as multicolor floral applications on a halter-neck gown.
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Iconoclasm is seldom the path to major power and immeasurable wealth. But boy, has it worked for Giorgio Armani. He is a rare breed of establishment lord who gives not a whit about the norms and conventions in place elsewhere. He does what he wants and for fall, what he wanted to do was, well, everything.
A line from Armani’s program notes read “Variety as a form of contemporary consistency.” That’s Italian for cornucopia of crazy. There was so much going on in this show it left your head spinning, sometimes because of the sheer volume of thoughts zipping past and because sometimes those thoughts left you confused. This approach stood in contrast to Armani’s spring collection, which was hyper focused to lovely effect.
Armani opened simply enough, with short jackets over front-draped pants and a pair of good-looking coats, tucked through the torso and released into an easy silhouette. Then he got rolling with the diversity angle – jackets of numerous varieties and pants, pants, pants. Wide pants, lean pants, pants that were really four billowing panels worn over tights, and pants that were really hilarious (elegant black pleat-paneled skirt in front attached to fanny-hugging pants in back, bright red, no
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Daniele Calcaterra’s debut runway show was a pleasant surprise for guests previously unfamiliar with his namesake brand.
A veteran of Italian labels like Piazza Sempione, the designer specializes in quiet luxury with an intellectual bent. His fall collection took its cues from the sculptures of Richard Serra. This was most evident in the color palette of rust, gray and black, and more subtly translated in the silhouettes combining straight and curved lines.
Ample coats came with extra-wide martingales that sometimes extended into panels dangling off the sides. These ranged from a crisp, black seamless trenchcoat to a white sleeveless coat trimmed with fur, all done in ultra-luxurious fabrics.
Calcaterra contrasted minimal tailoring and chunky ribbed knits with more feminine touches: oversized ruffles, trailing chiffon skirts and tactile details, like ostrich feathers on a navy short-sleeve top and matching skirt, or angora and mohair embellishments painstakingly applied to a cream raw silk column dress.
It comes as little surprise that the designer’s muse is Tilda Swinton. Certainly, these clothes will appeal to cerebral types. Calcaterra recently opened his first store in Salò on the banks of Lake Garda, and further retail expansion is in the cards.
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The second bundle of Alexander Wang’s designs for Adidas Originals will be released to retail Wednesday.
On March 1, select global retailers will sell the 14-piece collection. Initial stockists include Barneys in New York, Colette in Paris, Boon the Shop in Seoul, Antonioli in Milan, Storm in Copenhagen, Joyce in Hong Kong and Dover Street Market in Tokyo.
A wider release in Adidas Originals and Alexander Wang stores, as well as online, is scheduled for March 4.
Named the Flip Pack, the sophomore collection includes crop tops, track suits, shorts and footwear. Designs are offered in black, indigo and maroon.
The collection’s promotional imagery features Madonna’s son Rocco Ritchie. He is flanked by Wang muses Hanne Gaby Odiele, Binx Walton and Lexi Boling.
The campaign was shot by Juergen Teller, with creative direction by Ferdinando Verderi. Looks were styled by Karl Templer.
The first round of Wang’s collaboration with Adidas Originals was unleashed in a buy-it-now fashion, following his spring 2017 runway show. It was comprised of nine pieces: including T-shirts, sweatshirts and hoodies emblazoned with Adidas’ iconic trefoil logo.
Shoppers in London, Tokyo and New York were instructed to visit “pop-truck” retail environs where merch was sold on wheels. Much of the merchandise sold out.
Wang’s Adidas Originals
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VIRTUAL REALITY: Among designers pursuing new presentation formats, A.F. Vandevorst has hooked up with the online showroom Ordr.com to present its fall 2017 collection.
But that doesn’t mean it will all be taking place virtually. Instead, buyers this season will be invited to the brand’s Paris showroom to view Ordre.com-produced 360-degree images of the collection alongside the real thing. The idea, said An Vandevorst, is to ease them into the new way of showing, aimed at reducing time spent in the showroom.
“I think it will take them a season to get used to it. The idea is that they will always be able to come to the showroom to see and touch the real clothes, but that the buying part can be done in their own time via the site. The collections will be accessible 24 hours, 365 days of the year. What we like is that, if we come up with an idea for a project or collaboration, we can add it to the order platform regardless of the social, economic or political environment at the time and send out access passwords to those retailers we feel might be interested,” the designer said.
So what about the press? The brand, which last season opted
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One of the last remaining holdouts has joined the social media world: Céline has launched an Instagram account, just days ahead of the brand’s Paris Fashion Week show.
The account, which as of press time had seven posts and 39,500 followers (after just a few hours of being active), comes following the news that e-commerce might be on the horizon for the French label. WWD reported exclusively last week that in addition to a new chief executive officer, Séverine Merle, Céline is expected to launch online retail later this year.
In this day and age of the online overshare, there’s an added appeal to those who choose to bypass social media. Yet judging by the enthusiasm voiced in the comments of Céline’s early grams — from “Welcome to Instagram ♥️ This was long overdue” to “Where have you been all my life!” to “Yaaaaassss finally,” the fashion crowd is more than game for another luxury brand account in their feeds. All eyes will be on the account come Paris Fashion Week no doubt.
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ROCK STAR: After two seasons fronting Parisian jewelry label Ofée’s France-centric ad campaigns, local actress Virginie Ledoyen is putting her stamp on the brand’s gems, having codesigned a jewelry capsule with Valérie de Mazières and Anne Bougon-Scelo.
Dubbed Pleädes, the minimalist line, which will be presented March 6 to 9 in Paris, was inspired by Japan and architecture, incorporating plays on light and shade inspired by the chiaroscuro technique. The capsule houses two necklaces, two earrings and a ring and bracelet available in combinations of rose gold, white gold and diamonds.
Ofée cofounder de Mazières said Ledoyen, who is said to be filming an adaption of the Harlan Coben bestseller, “Just One Look,” said the actress perfectly captures the brand’s codes of “spontaneity, audacity and Parisian elegance.”
The line will hit Ofée’s e-shop and Paris store on Rue du Bac in mid-April, before being rolled out to a range of doors internationally.
The 10-year-old label, which recently opened stores in Hong Kong and Macau, China, counts about 60 points of sale in total, including Ikram in Chicago, 10 Corso Como in Milan and Le Bon Marché in Paris.
Ofée Taps Muse Virginie Ledoyen to Collaborate on Jewelry Capsule
Courtesy Photo
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