Boho power dressing, eat your heart out. Isabel Marant, in this fun twist on her universe, went full-on Eighties, sometimes edging into Joan Collins territory with the big shoulder action. But she did it her way, with a casualness and bohemian flavor, folding in crafty, folkloric touches.
The collection was plumped with classic Marant staples, with great use of quilting — her first love — on velvet tops and jackets, and updates on her signature oversize tailored jackets, cinched with wide suede belts, which kept the look light, feminine and fluid.
New directions included long skirts — a pragmatic move on Marant’s part — with a run of pretty floral plissé dresses worn over high boots. “It’s this idea of how you want to wear clothes in winter, having longer lengths and still being sexy, but feeling cozy and comfy in your clothes,” said the designer backstage.
Set to pounding music, with the show’s Palais Royal venue rigged with enough lights to rival a stadium, the show climaxed into sexy-Parisian, rock territory, with crystal-studded jeans, leopard-print dresses and glitter boots entering the equation. Not forgetting the till-ringer denim jackets embroidered with shooting stars and Evil Eye suns. Just like those rays, Marant’s cool factor never seems

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LONDON — Hussein Chalayan is looking to woo a new and younger audience with the launch of a stand-alone denim line for fall. The focus is on tailored, timeless styles and silhouettes inspired by the designer’s archive — and his more recent runway designs.
“There are so many ideas that I can represent in denim,” the designer said in an interview, adding that he was looking forward to “reconnecting” with certain pieces in his archive.
He also emphasized the new collection would have its own identity, and is not meant to be an add-on to his main line, which has featured denim over the past 22 years. “It’s younger than the main line — although anyone can wear certain pieces — it’s just a different thing.”
Colors include rich, dark blue, black and gray in various thicknesses. Some pieces are constructed with heavier and lighter denims blended in the same garment. Knit and jersey separates also form part of the collection.
The items all come with a signature paper label. The paper, stitched onto openings or pockets, is perforated, and can be left intact or torn, depending on the look the customer wants. Chalayan said the paper label makes every piece unique, and plays to his obsession with packaging and the idea

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PARIS — The presentation of the 21 semifinalists for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers in Paris was a celebration of an increasingly mobile generation of young designers.
But with one designer absent due to visa issues and two others relating tales of last-minute battles against red tape, the event was also a reminder of the powerful political forces that threaten to curb the free movement of talent that the fashion industry has long depended on.
In the era of President Trump’s attempted curbs on immigration, Brexit and the rise of far-right political movements in France, The Netherlands and elsewhere across Europe, open borders may soon be going out of trend, members of the industry fear.
The presentation, held at the headquarters of luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton on Avenue Montaigne, showcased labels based in the U.S., Japan, South Korea, New Zealand, the U.K., Germany, Taiwan and Denmark, among others.
But Maria Kazakova, the Russian designer behind the New York-based label Jahnkoy, had to join in via Skype after getting stuck in New York due to visa issues. Having graduated from Parsons the New School for Design, she recently applied for an artist’s visa.
“I’m transitioning from one visa status to another one, so in

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Since her popular Bravo reality show went off the air, Rachel Zoe has been Instagramming her on-duty and off-duty life with regularity, but she’s officially launching an Instagram Stories series, called “Real Life With Rachel Zoe,” on March 5. The two-minute stories, which will post every Sunday at 9 a.m. PST, are meant to bridge the gap for her former television audience and her followers who now consume content digitally.

Rachel Zoe at home the morning after the Oscars. 
Courtesy Rachel Zoe/Zoe Media Group

“We came up with the idea in September and have been testing it since October, for one simple reason: People have asked for the show back,” said Zoe. “I think that given what social media has become in our universe, it’s just totally natural. They want things that are quick, funny, fast and not overproduced.”
In fact, there are no producers. Most of the iPhone video footage is shot by Zoe’s husband Rodger Berman, and she and her staff compile photos and videos throughout the week to create each “episode.”
“It’s completely unscripted and unplanned; it’s everyday life. People feel like they’re getting a taste of the show in my new life as a mom, stylist, designer and editor in chief

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AU REVOIR: “Good luck, and what an amazing last few years it has been,” said “Versailles” star Anna Brewster, who was among a gaggle of A-listers attending the final Chloé show under Clare Waight Keller on Thursday.
Ana Girardot, who has been dressed several times by the designer over the years, was also among the well-wishers, saying it had been an honor to wear her creations. The French actress stars in the soon-to-be-released “Knock,” alongside Omar Sy, and the Cédric Klapisch-helmed “Back to Burgundy,” about a long-departed brother returning to his family home in Burgundy just as he and his siblings inherit their family vineyard.
Other guests, such as Gwendoline Christie and Isabelle Huppert — who was looking a little weary following the Oscars, as one of this year’s contenders for the Best Actress award — were less forthcoming. “I will deliver my message in person after the show,” demurred Christie, before shooting off to catch up with Marianne Faithfull.
A vision in a white lace dress, Solange Knowles, who said she was looking forward to becoming an aunty again with her sister Beyoncé expecting twins, concentrated on bopping along to the show’s Eighties tracks, including the Human League classic “(Keep Feeling) Fascination.”
Emma Roberts, who confessed she had not yet met Waight

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CAPE TOWN — South African Men’s Wear Week opened its fifth season on a high with a new title sponsor, Lexus, whose revised positioning of “Experience Amazing” made the partnership a compelling fit, according to SAMW cofounder Simon Deiner.
“We’ve always positioned the SA Men’s Wear Week as an all-inclusive event, versus an off-limits fashion week, by creating spaces that followers of fashion can attend and hopefully catch a show, versus strictly controlled doors,” he said. “I think this more lifestyle aspect that runs alongside the serious media/buyer business-to-business core was quite attractive as it brings a diverse range of really good consumers to the event, which appealed to Lexus.”
SAMW heralded many firsts this season. The four-day event last month began with an offsite show, FMBCJ by Craig Jacobs, bowing at Cape Town luxury emporium Merchants on Long, followed by a cross-continental design collaboration featuring Jacobs and Nigerian designer Babatunde Oyeyemi of the urban streetwear label Maxivive and diffusion label MXVV.
“Babatunde approached me a few months ago, mentioning that he thought my sports-luxe aesthetic fitted in with his sub-brand MXVV and was wondering if I would be interested in collaboration,” explained Jacobs. “As designers, we often work in a vacuum, and I

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C&A Foundation, the corporate foundation affiliated with global retailer C&A, is launching a global initiative aimed at helping brands, retailers and manufacturers find more innovative and sustainable ways of producing fashion.

Apparel maker Gildan Activewear has confirmed American Apparel products will continue to be made in the US, after revealing it has secured contractors in the country to support production.

The International Wool Textile Organisation (IWTO) has released a set of guidelines designed specifically for conducting life cycle assessments on wool products to help businesses better understand environmental impacts across the wool supply chain.