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Natasha Zinko went retro for fall, fusing Forties tailoring elements with the romance and innocence of the Eighties for her playful-yet-polished lineup of dresses, coats and separates. The upbeat music from the era played during the presentation, during which some models danced around.
Zinko’s use of feminine silhouettes from the Forties elevated the range and gave the outing a refined appeal. A lilac midi-length jersey plaid coat with wide shoulders was nipped at the waist with a black patent leather belt, while a yellow tweed jacket featured a swingy peplum silhouette.
She introduced shearling into her range via a reversible coat, worn over a fuchsia zip-front shirt, which was tucked into soft pink plaid ankle-length trousers. Tweed was also seen in an overcoat paired with a black patent-leather bustier dress.
The range was done up in a palette of bold hues in pink, green, violet, aqua and lilac.
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Designers including Simone Rocha and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi showed military-inspired looks meant to empower women, while their cocoonlike bulk also provided a sense of protection.
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London runways — at Osman, Molly Goddard and Christopher Kane, among others — shone with a variety of lustrous, glossy, gleaming and iridescent looks.
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LONDON — The season may have been short of new trends, but designers showing their fall collections here won praise from buyers for their creative energy and approach to commerce.
Lots of color and cozy tactile fabrics, such as velvet, faux fur and shearling; statement jackets; sturdy, protective outerwear, and metallic shine were among the big themes that emerged.
Deconstruction and asymmetry were also on designers’ minds, while the highlights of the week included Erdem, J.W. Anderson, Simone Rocha, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto, Christopher Kane and Anya Hindmarch.
“London looked very strong,” said Ken Downing, fashion director and senior vice president at Neiman Marcus. “It looked strongest when designers were true to themselves and continued with an exuberant, eclectic spirit that I look for in London and that I think brings a real joy to the coming season.
“We’re in an era of emotion,” he added. “I think that eclectic spirit that we always find in collections here brings a very emotional reaction to what the customer is looking for. London designers always deliver on that promise of the unexpected. And I think the unexpected has become the norm for how the customer is shopping.”
He nodded to Simone Rocha’s femininity and romance with an elegant
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Norisol Ferrari is seizing her Melania moment, yet not without some inner conflict. She wants to focus on the clothes and the ideas behind them rather than on the Trump connection. Ferrari, who has designed a collection under her namesake label since 2008, has seen her name recognition grow exponentially since Melania Trump wore her military-inspired coat to the pre-Inauguration ceremony at Arlington National Cemetery.
Ferrari has been fielding media requests ever since. Last week, she called to invite WWD to review her fall collection in the showroom. It impressed. My colleague Mayte Allende, who reviewed the line, noted the appeal of its strong silhouettes, often in deceptively comfortable fabrics — for example, a seemingly structured suit and coat, cut for ease in camel double-faced crepe.
The idea of a studio review appealed to Ferrari, who has twice shown within the New York Fashion Week calendar, for fall 2012 and spring 2013, and is disinclined to return. “I’ve never really believed in the runway show for a small brand, especially when it comes to luxury and commercialism,” said Ferrari, in a phone conversation as she readied her 50-piece fall collection for this week’s market. “I believe that the luxury client wants more exclusivity, and [that can be telegraphed]
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As fashion’s road show shifts to Continental Europe, here are three brands to watch during Milan Fashion Week beginning today.
BALLY
Following the departure of creative director Pablo Coppola, Bally is gearing up to introduce both its men’s and women’s collections with a single presentation to be held on Thursday at Milan’s prestigious Biblioteca Nazionale Braidense library.
“Bally has evolved its single creative director model to embrace a ‘creative collective’ comprised of three design heads for shoes, accessories and ready-to-wear. This will refresh the way of working on the development of the collections, fostering the collaboration among creative talents inside and outside the company and merchandising,” said Bally chief executive officer Frédéric de Narp, explaining the new organization of the brand.
While a big focus was put on rtw over the last few seasons, Bally is going back to its roots for fall, shining the spotlight back onto accessories.
“Bally is built on a legacy of luxury leather goods and this is where the strength of the business lies,” de Narp said. “Design will continue to focus on creating a vibrant selection of fashion accessories, with shoes and bags at the center, and in growing the women’s offer.’’
For fall, the creative team evoked the mood of a gentleman’s club
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