Fay RTW Fall 2017

There was a punk flavor to this collection by Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, who believe women want to tear up their wardrobes and piece them back together in different — and more laid-back — ways. “These are iconic pieces, but in the context of today: masculine-feminine silhouettes and embellished, sporty clothing,” Aquilano said backstage after the show, which was set in a new brick-and-concrete loft space near Linate airport.
The designers riffed on Fay’s outerwear staples — duffle and military coats, hooded jackets, and toppers done in check and plaid fabrics. They sprinkled them with clusters of diamanté jewels, or punched them full of small, shiny studs. There were flippy, pleated skirts and short jackets in plaid or leather, some bejeweled, others streaked with zippers or dotted with studs, while a few glowed with iridescent leather made to look like python.
Plaid overcoats and duffles had large, rounded shoulders in a nod to all those oversize proportions swarming the European catwalks, while a neat peplum jacket with a drawstring waist and a big white collar had a spray of sparkly jewels at the front. None of it this was groundbreaking, but that’s not the point. It was classy — and commercial.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Veda RTW Fall 2017

Veda founder and creative director Lyndsey Butler recalibrated her vision for Veda this season, pivoting back to her roots of designing the perfect leather jacket, with a focus on fit and quality. Since launching in 2008, she has offered a range of ready-to-wear looks that have a sense of cool, laid-back ease underscored by timeless design. Her redefined mission statement for fall came through a whopping 12 leather jacket iterations — not including varying color and leather choices — and a capsule of black leather separates, hammering home the brand’s core identity.
It’s hard to imagine there being that many covetable leather jacket silhouettes, but Butler crafted some outstanding options: modern aviator bombers; cropped aviator styles with colorful, interchangeable shearling collars; shearling moto jackets; cropped blazers; velvet-leather biker jacket hybrids, and an understatedly cool leather puffer, to name a few.
Butler wanted customers to consider Veda as the one-stop shop for leather everything, including fitted camisole and slipdresses, a boxy T-shirt, casual five-pocket pants, a stretch-leather legging, an A-line miniskirt and other tops with various hardware detail. Her earthy color palette drew from Agnes Martin’s recent retrospective at the Guggenheim, with pops of color taken from Japanese photographer Takashi Yasumura’s “Domestic Scandals.” Styles will carry over to forthcoming

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Ashley Williams RTW Fall 2017

That 5 a.m. post-party moment, when you’re either doing the walk of shame or the stride of pride, was the inspiration behind Ashley Williams’ more polished collection for fall. The lyrics of her favorite song — Kate Bush’s “Under the Ivy,” in which the protagonist takes a breather from a party to await her lover in the boughs of the garden — inspired the introvert mood of the collection, which spoke to the wardrobes of those party girls who love the night life as well as those who’d rather be home watching Netflix.
Party refuseniks were catered to via full tracksuits in pale lemon yellow or gray emblazoned with “Gimme Five” or Stephen King-inspired “Misery” slogans, respectively, the hood worn up and topped with oversize Stetsons for maximum anonymity.
Williams nodded to the Milanese Paninaro street-style trend from the Eighties, in which cool young things thoroughly embraced American sportswear and Wild West influences, and incorporated preppy Ivy League looks into their style. This translated into nice tartan skirts and wide cropped pants and was especially successful in the yellow tartan kilt that came with a buttoned-up gray shirt and a tan varsity jacket, also featuring a “Misery” slogan and a wolf’s head

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Wunderkind RTW Fall 2017

Wolfgang Joop mixed safari, tartans, men’s suitings and punk references for his campy, outdoorsy fall collection. At times, the results were casual, as in a khaki shirtdress that featured a detachable contrasting pleated bottom and was layered over a navy hoodie and a metallic puff jacket. Other looks were more forced, as with a red-striped tailored jacket with a skirt that was half matching, half in leopard and tartan. There were plenty of reworked classics to go around — pink oxford shirtdresses with deconstructed skirt overlays, super-wide chinos, cozy sweaters and for the trendy youngsters, floral velvet suiting over hoodies.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Karl Lagerfeld Designs Tiara for Vienna Opera Ball

HEADLINER: Karl Lagerfeld has turned his design talents to the Vienna Opera Ball.
The multitasker has designed a tiara for the dozens of debutantes at this year’s event, due to be held on Feb. 23, dubbing it The Blue Danube. Lagerfeld picked a color scheme of white gold set with diamonds and sapphires, although the tiaras will in fact be produced by Swarovski using their signature crystals.
The original sketch of the tiara — in pastel, grease pencils and Tipp-Ex on tracing paper — was sold by auction house Dorotheum at the Hotel Sacher in Vienna on Tuesday, raising 13,000 euros, or $13,650 at current exchange, for Caritas & Du, a charity based in Vienna that offers support for the homeless as well as emergency aid internationally.
Lagerfeld last year designed costumes for “Brahms-Schoenberg Quartet” at Opéra Bastille, choreographed by Benjamin Millepied, drawing inspiration from the Vienna Secession art movement for his designs.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Byronesques’ X-rated Margiela Move

Byronesque.com is going hard core.
The editorial-based contemporary vintage resale web site will showcase more than 300 signature and hard-to-find Maison Martin Margiela pieces from some of the designer’s most sought-after collections, including Oversize and Flat when Byronesque takes over the city’s last porn movie house, Le Beverley Adult Cinema at 14 Rue de la Ville Neuve, during Paris Fashion Week on March 5 and 6.
“We’re playing on the idea that you’re in a secret place seeing something taboo that’s not for everyone,” said chief executive officer and editor in chief Gill Linton. “Nothing else makes people want something more.”
The fact that Byronesque.com is getting down and dirty should surprise no one, given its propensity to shock and offend. Simon Burrill’s fashion film about skinheads was featured on the site, along with a photo shoot and essay about Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s Swastika Sex cape in which Joe Corre said that the symbol “was used within the same kind of spirit as the images of gay sex, pedophile victims, images of the Queen and in the context that they were tearing down all the taboos.”
Linton said Byronesque.com will offer “the most sexy vintage Maison Martin Margiela” from 1980 to 2009, including a rare Margiela plastic bag collector’s piece and artisanal accessories from the

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia Back in the News for Pratt’s Visionary Award

AFTER SCHOOL: With news-making skills that seem to keep pace with her design ones, Laura Kim will be honored at Pratt Institute’s May 4 fashion show along with Fernando Garcia, her cocreative director at Oscar de la Renta.
The duo also started and design the Monse label, showing their most recent collection as a double billing with their Oscar de la Renta one during New York Fashion Week. They will pick up Pratt’s Fashion Visionary Award at the school’s 118th annual show at Spring Studios.
Kim learned sketching, pattern making and sewing, growing up in Seoul and Calgary before earning a bachelor of fine arts in fashion design at Pratt. Kim interned at TSE Cashmere, Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta. With a B.S. in architecture from the University of Notre Dame, Garcia also interned at Oscar de la Renta and later served as principal designer for six years. In 2015, they launched Monse, which counts Selena Gomez, Sarah Jessica Parker and stylist Kate Young among its fans. Lottie Moss, Doutzen Kroes and Mia Moretti were front row for last week’s show at Skylight Clarkson Square. Garcia replaced Peter Copping, who had been selected by Oscar de la Renta as the

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Mother of Pearl Previews Fall 2017 Ahead Of See-Now-Buy-Now Show in September

NEW ROMANTICS: Ahead of its move next season to a see-now-buy-now format, Mother of Pearl creative director Amy Powney hosted appointments to give press a preview of the fall collection, which will be shown on the runway in London in September.
Powney looked to the 19th-century Romantic period, and the desire of artists and poets to return to nature in reaction to industrialization, for her inspiration, making much of florals and frills.
Her favorite artist, Caravaggio, provided the inspiration for the moody darkness of the palette, his chiaroscuro technique of rendering light and dark coming through in the dramatic flowers printed on heavy satins, the artist’s Renaissance period evident in the opulence of deep black velvets and heavy golden jacquards.
The brand’s sporty DNA was evident in the great quilted zip-front coat in a lush floral satin, and in the baby pink tweed tracksuit that had raw-edge frills on the outside of the sleeves. And the brand’s signature pearls were at work on many shoulder seams, tucked in the folds of yet more frills.
Powney’s Mother of Pearl collections get stronger from season to season and, when the full collection hits the catwalk later this year, it is sure to impress.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

23.02.2017No comments
Aries Launches ‘Bacchanalian’ Book With David Sims

IT’S A FEAST: Dover Street Market was packed on the night of Feb. 21, as shoppers were trying to get their hands on a copy of “Click-to-Buy,” the first photo book released by London-based streetwear label Aries in collaboration with fashion photographer David Sims.
“David has always been interested in subcultures and streetwear — he had a surf shop,” spilled Aries cofounder Sofia Prantera. “And one day he offered to take pictures for me; I think he just wanted to do something slightly different. But I was quite shocked; it took me two years to get the courage to say: ‘Do you really mean it?’” she said.

Inside the “Click-to-Buy” book by Aries and David Sims. 
Courtesy

Teased Sims: “You know what? And I probably shouldn’t share this: Sofia knows something about my history that I wouldn’t want people to know, and she threatened to tell people, so that’s why I did it — and that’s the truth.”
Naturally, don’t expect to find any polished fashion photography in the 96-page tome, which is available today.
Styled by Jane How and featuring artwork by Prantera’s creative partner Fergus “Fergadelic” Purcell, the book zooms in on Aries’ visual language. “I wanted it to be less about the clothes and more about the branding,”

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

23.02.2017No comments