PARIS — Swiss courts have turned down a final appeal by Christian Louboutin to trademark its red-soled heels in what represents the latest setback in the shoemaker’s quest to defend its rights to the signature look.
The Federal Supreme Court of Switzerland in Lausanne has denied the high-fashion footwear brand’s demand for trademark protection, finding that the red soles are merely an aesthetic element. The fact that the brand has won the battle for trademark status in other markets including China, Australia and Russia does not mean the shoes should enjoy the same status in Switzerland, the court said.
Louboutin’s fortunes have been mixed during the house’s legal battles for a monopoly on red-soled shoes. In 2011 and 2012, Louboutin and Yves Saint-Laurent engaged in a year-and-a-half tug-of-war over the latter brand’s right to sell shoes that were red all over, including the sole. A New York federal judge denied Louboutin’s claim that YSL’s monochromatic model represented copyright infringement, but the brand was able to retain its trademark for red soles that contrast with the rest of the shoe in an appeal.
In 2013, the Dutch company Van Haren was forced to cease production of a red-soled model when the Brussels Court of Appeal ruled in favor of an injunction by Louboutin, finding that the red soles represented a

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Anush Benliyan

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Geometry served as the starting point for Piazza Sempione’s fall collection, which was designed by the brand’s fashion team. Stripes and checks took center stage in the lineup, which offered an effortlessly elegant around-the-clock wardrobe for busy women. A cool cashmere parka worked in a white and beige striped pattern and embellished with a fox fur hood was worn with roomy pants and a turtleneck sweater that had a casual chic attitude. A color-blocked jacket with shearling details, as well as in a soft Prince of Wales alpaca coat, had the same laid-back vibe. The brand’s traditional femininity, infused here with a pragmatic feel, was also evident in the evening options, such as a Lurex top worn with coordinated pants, as well as a fluid, slightly oversize white tuxedo.

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Gabriele Colangelo updated Giada’s signature minimalistic and rigorous aesthetic with charming new softness and lightness.
The elegant lineup conveyed a sense of discreet luxury, thanks to a combination of sophisticated designs and high-end materials. Layering created new silhouettes with draped tops matched with plissé knitted maxiskirts worn under short wrap skirts embellished with pins in the shape of elegant orchids. Plissé also injected a sense of dynamism into the featherweight chiffon dresses worn with fluid pants, while an impeccable sartorial approach was evident in the slightly oversize suits with asymmetric lapels.
The collection’s soft touch was enhanced by the introduction of mohair, crafted for cozy turtleneck sweaters and tunic dresses.

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“Notte is an extension of the Marchesa line; it’s actually an easier take on that,” explained creative directors Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. They noted that both collections had a common theme — Imperial China. The designers didn’t take the inspiration too literally, looking to the opulence of the era for the exquisite details embellishing the elegant lineups. Off-the-shoulder silhouettes were crafted in a polka-dot tulle and in a  chiffon gown incorporating a corset. Ruffled tulle floor-length designs were encrusted with crystals for sparkling light effects. Other looks included romantic embroideries of butterflies, as well as multicolor floral applications on a halter-neck gown.

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