Fall’s hot color was impossible to miss at Fendi’s ultrachic fall show, where Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi styled every exit with over-the-knee red boots, including these fiery ensembles captured backstage. Red also spilled over into Milan’s lively streetscapes.
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OLFACTORY EXPERIENCE: Somerset House plans to put fragrance at the fore with an exhibition aimed at exploring contemporary cult perfumes. “Perfume: A Sensory Journey Through Contemporary Scent,” is promising a “multisensory” experience that will allow visitors to discover unconventional scents developed over the last 20 years — and the stories of the perfumers behind them.
The focus will be on 10 perfumes, ranging from Antoine Les Sécretions Magnifiques for État Libre D’Orange, to Geza Schoen’s Molecule 01 for Escentric Molecules and Purple Rain by Daniela Andrier for Prada Olfactories. What binds the perfumes is their defiance of convention associated with gender or good taste. The perfumers, most of whom work independently and haven’t had any formal training, have been looking for unusual ingredients to create scents that often shock the senses. Sécrétions Magnifiques evokes the essence of sweat, blood and saliva, among others.
A photo by Laziz Hamani.
Courtesy photo
Other scents chosen by Somerset House’s senior curator Claire Catterall include El Cosmico, created in 2015 by the Brooklyn-based perfumer David Seth Moltz to re-create the sensory experience of the camping ground in the Texan town of Marfa. Charcoal is also part of the selection. A fragrance by Lyn Harris, who founded Perfumer H, evokes memories
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UPTOWN GOES DOWNTOWN: Hermès will make another big Los Angeles splash on March 9 with its “Dwntwnmen” event, a celebration of artistic collaborations inspired by the City of Angels. The company will contruct an entire “world of Hermès” on Downtown L.A.’s Spring Street, in an empty lot adjacent to the train tracks and inside a 60,000-square-foot warehouse.
Hosted by Hermès president Axel Dumas and Hermès North America president and chief executive officer Robert Chavez, the event will take its several hundred guests on “a journey through the spring-summer 2017 collections for men.” That means a full-on outdoor runway show, natch, which will feature several new pieces just for the event, modeled by a crew of Paris catwalkers and also local “real” people (albeit extremely handsome ones), from chefs to surfers to skateboarders.
However, the runway show is only part of the draw. In the vein of the Louis Vuitton “Series 5” exhibit in Los Angeles a few years ago, Dwntwnmen will feature an immersive, multiroom, multisensory experience that conveys how the product and the collection were created. One such room will be dedicated to the house’s iconic silk foulard, imagined as record covers, which guests can select to play different types of
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Phoebe Neuman
Hanging out with the Lane Bryant dream team.
Here’s what happened at Anthony Vaccarello‘s latest show for Saint Laurent.
So thoughtful of her!
Your front row view, no ticket required.
Olivier Theyskens switched his show location this season from a minimalist white gallery space to the Belle Époque splendor of Le Train Bleu, the soaring restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station in Paris.
As if responding to some mysterious mathematical equation, he traded the lavish ballgowns that closed his show last season for a more grounded wardrobe rooted in daywear. “I did some drawings of them and I killed them early, actually. I wasn’t feeling it, because I wanted that girl to be, like, contrasting with this place,” he explained after the show.
The designer veered between short and long hemlines, alternating dresses with flippy miniskirts with belted maxi trenchcoats worn with extra-wide pants that swallowed the feet. A form-fitting tartan-patterned sweater dress, layered over a filmy floor-length skirt, suggested a compromise approach.
Meanwhile, a mustard yellow moiré priest coat was toned down with raw-hemmed blue jeans. “Some of the pieces that I felt slightly opulent, I wanted to counterbalance them in the way a girl would wear them. I felt it was appropriate,” Theyskens explained.
That didn’t mean he skimped on glamour. There were his signature bias-cut gowns, including a sleeveless one in forest green satin, and Victorian-inspired silhouettes, including a
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