Willy Chavarria used The Eagle, New York’s iconic leather bar, as a setting for his spring collection. But he juxtaposed the gritty gay subculture scene by filling the bar with fragrant flowers and parking two pristine Lowrider cars outside the venue.
“I wanted to show two cultures that don’t co-exist,” Chavarria said.
The oversize leather outerwear pieces, baggy pants and caps had a clear Robert Mapplethorpe influence, while striped polos and slouchy cropped khakis had a strong Chollo vibe.
Plays on renowned American logos such as Coors and Marlboro were reinvented as graphic adornments on sweatshirts, shorts and pants. The show pieces were hand-painted by Chavarria’s friend and collaborator, Brian Calvin. The one-of-a-kind-pieces will be sold at galleries as artwork and turned into prints for the commercial collection.
Other graphic slogans included “Silence Still Equals Death,” a play on the AIDS-related mantra from the Eighties. “That now applies to all things in these highly political times,” he said.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety

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George Sotelo’s spring collection for Thorsun reflected a recent trip he took to Bali, mashed together with his Mexican heritage, which served as his primary inspiration over the past three seasons.
On 100 percent recycled French polyester for his men’s offering and Italian polyester for the women’s, he splashed playful Indonesian-inspired graphics including a toucan print and tropical florals.
He also revisited more familiar territory — geometric fish prints and abstract paisley.
The brand’s women’s range has been expanded this season, spanning bikinis and one-pieces to long-sleeve rash guards.
Sotelo revealed that while he’s already begun designing some T-shirts to complement his men’s swimwear, “I’m going full-on ready-to-wear for next season.” He said the line will start out as men’s only and will be centered around tops that work well with the bathing suits, such as sport shirts, sweaters and a larger assortment of T-shirts.
See More From the Men’s 2018 Collections:
Perry Ellis Men’s Spring 2018: The company injected performance features into its tailored clothing uniform and then layered on fashion.
Hecho Men’s Spring 2018: The spring collection expanded on singular, identifiable staples in new, still breathable, fabrics.
Boss Men’s Spring 2018: Designer Ingo Wilts used a variety of nautical references in the line.
Nick Graham Men’s Spring 2018: The designer was inspired by the

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Ryohei Kawanishi is drawn to cultural melting pots.
Before the Japanese designer moved to Harlem, he spent seven years living in Dalston, a neighborhood in East London that was known for its Caribbean community. Kawanishi said the main premise for Landlord is to take what he sees on the streets and translate it into fashion. This is a strategy practiced by many, if not most, designers, but there’s something different about his interpretations, which err on the side of homage rather than appropriation.
Reggae formed the foundation for his spring collection, and sometimes the references were quite literal but still clever. One sweater read “Bob” — as in Bob Marley — and other oversize knits were covered with “Jerk Chicken” and marijuana leaves. Then there was the Rastafarian-influenced color palette of red, green and yellow, which looked particularly fresh on color-blocked pants and jackets made from nylon.
Kawanishi said visual references from street markets also crept into the collection. This was evident with the camo prints placed to obscure a faux Burberry plaid along with the leather sneakers and sandals worn without socks. Other highlights included a satin parka, a matte leather jacket and the cuffed, baggy denim.
Kawanishi, who is now on his

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“Nothingness is just as important as things that are there,” Andrea Tsao, one-third of Deveaux’s design team, posited ahead of the brand’s fourth outing. That philosophical outlook was taken from Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s design M.O. — whose use of muted palettes, clean lines and leanings toward raw materials parallel design elements in the Deveaux world.
The tether to Ando was light, bearing conceptual details that made minimal silhouettes feel special. An “architect” car coat that opened the show, for example, played with the idea of spacing and exposure, featuring pockets that wove in and out. “What you see and what you can’t see is a large part of his architecture,” Tsao continued. Other details like pockets-within-pockets and belts weaving through cutouts teetered on modern and luxurious design.
The overall tone was more relaxed than previous efforts, featuring an experimentation with oversize fits and vintage sensibilities. Roomy, A-line coats in black washed nylon and glen plaid erred on the side of sophistication, while color-blocked knitwear, khaki-and-white top combos, and chunky sneakers were retro and retail-friendly propositions.
The team also showed a few women’s looks, which showcased architectural references with more freedom. Standouts included a sharp tailored blazer and offbeat olive cotton shirt. It

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New York Fashion Week is in turmoil. If it weren’t obvious already, the news on Wednesday that Joseph Altuzarra is defecting to Paris makes it official. His is the fifth American brand to do so in two seasons, with Proenza Schouler, Monique Lhuillier and Rodarte (who held appointments there last fall) having shown during what used to be couture week, but is now an amalgam of couture, spring and cruise. Altuzarra will show during the city’s traditional ready-to-wear season, as will Thom Browne.
With those single-season departures, New York has lost several of its most highly anticipated, most artistic shows. There aren’t many more left. Yes, there are still plenty of shows, hundreds of them, but relatively few with the must-see magnetism that every season needs. While that may sound mean, it’s not intended as such. Rather, it’s a statement of fact, and people are wondering. In Paris during couture, I had at least three conversations (none of which I initiated) that included snippets along the lines of, “What’s happening in New York?”; “Something’s got to be done”; “Soon, there won’t be anyone left.”
It’s a situation long in the making.

Altuzarra RTW Fall 2017 
Clint Spaulding/WWD

The American industry has always been more democratic than its European counterparts, at least in part a reflection of a country established

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Amy Smilovic isn’t sure she considers herself a designer. As the creative director and founder of Tibi, the contemporary brand she launched 20 years ago in Hong Kong, she is responsible for a ready-to-wear and accessories business with $50 million in revenues. But she has no formal design training. Her previous professional life was in advertising, working at Ogilvy & Mather and American Express in account management, not creative.
“For sure, I always have imposter syndrome,” Smilovic said in her downtown Manhattan office one spring afternoon. “Nothing is more painful to me than walking out at the end of the runway show and waving. I have very firm ideas on what I love and how proportions go together and how things should fit, but I can’t drape a dress.”
What she lacks in technical skill she’s made up for with sharp instincts, a good eye and unconventional business practices that have made Tibi a unique case study in contemporary American fashion. In the two decades since Smilovic decided to launch a clothing line, as an expat who moved to Hong Kong for her husband Frank Smilovic’s job, the brand has had two lives — first, undeniably young and print-driven contemporary 1.0; the second, sophisticated

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NEW YORK — IMG will introduce NYFW: The Experience in September for key corporate clients and high-end consumers looking for a first-hand experience at the fashion shows.
What’s being offered are private behind-the-scenes tours, fashion insider Q&As, photo opportunities on the runway, premium seating at a runway show, designer and model meet and greets, showroom visits, hair and makeup in the TRESemmé salon, access to a designer trunk show, luxury gift bags, exclusive styling services and access to a full-service hospitality lounge featuring a premium bar and gourmet food. The events are being coordinated by QuintEvents, and can be customized to the individual or corporation.
“This is an experience that was created to bring select individuals closer to the energy of fashion week. It’s part of a broader Experience platform that we’re developing across genres of events like the Masters and Wimbledon,” said Mark Shapiro, co-chief executive officer of WME/IMG.
He said these one-of-a kind experiences allow fans to get closer to the action. “We’ve had incredible demand from brands, designers and people who recognize NYFW and global fashion weeks are changing and evolving. Fashion shows are the ultimate mega-marketing event, and historically the consumer has been outside the door,” Shapiro said. He said

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TORY SPORT’S NEW TEAMMATE: Luxury online retailer Mytheresa.com will launch Tory Sport on its site, beginning today, with the fall collection.
Mytheresa.com is launching the collection with a short video, demonstrating the collection in action. In the video, the model is stretching, exercising and dancing while sporting such items as leggings, tanks, sweaters and workout trousers.
Mytheresa.com will carry a selection of Tory Sport including clothing, bags, shoes and accessories for running, studio, tennis, golf and coming and going, a category of pieces that can be worn before and after a workout.
At present, Tory Sport is available at torysport.com and Tory Sport freestanding stores in cities such as New York; Dallas; East Hampton, N.Y.; Minneapolis; Honolulu; Las Vegas, and San Antonio, as well as a shop-in-shop at the Tory Burch Lee Gardens at Causeway Bay boutique in Hong Kong. Its wholesale partners are Barneys New York, Net-a-porter, neimanmarcus.com, as well as Goop.com, that will launch later this month.

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Australian jewelry designer’s latest cuffs are bold and beautiful.

Each of the 50 examples built comes with a riding lesson from a member of the Indian Racing Team.