Blog Left Sidebar

The role of virtual and digital, paper yarns and the importance of customized items in the yarn industry were among the defining features of the 80th edition of Pitti Filati, which took Florence for three days ended Jan. 27.
Organizers aim to increase international attendance at Pitti Filati and it seems the fair is going in the right direction: the first closing numbers of the January edition showed a 2.5 percent increase in the number of buyers, for a total of more than 4,350 visitors.
Nonetheless, a focus on the single figures shows a fragmented patchwork: Russia was the best performing market, with an 87 percent increase; followed by Japan, up 23 percent; France, ahead up 8.5 percent, and Germany with a 6 percent gain. The U.K. and U.S. remained steady.
Regarding the U.S., Italian spinners are watching with interest the potential changes that may involve the yarn industry with the new administration, but they were upbeat.
Silvio Botto Poala, Botto Giuseppe’s chief executive officer, said,  “It’s true in the yarn industry there’s much talk about a ‘Trump effect,’ but I don’t believe the yarn industry will be affected.”
Tollegno 1900 presented its new concept, “Customize Your Yarn.” Thanks to a partnership with Shima Seiki

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

NEXT STOP LITTLE WEST 12TH: While numerous designers are switching cities and schedules for a change of pace instead of another round at New York Fashion Week, Carolina Herrera will be switching things up by staging her show downtown.
After three consecutive seasons at the Frick Collection on the Upper East Side, the designer will present her fall collection at 10 a.m. on Feb. 13 in the Meatpacking District. In lieu of the serene Fifth Avenue museum that was once what industrialist and financier Henry Clay Frick called home, the company has decided on a considerably more unfinished space at 25 Little West 12th Street. The move is meant to relay “the essence of uptown-meets-downtown attitude,” by being situated in a neighborhood steeped with New York history. Herrera said Tuesday, “I love New York and discovering unexpected hidden treasures and as soon as I walked into the space I thought it was perfect!”
Using the Meatpacking District address for next month’s show could be a sure sign of a new era at Carolina Herrera Ltd. Following the exit of Francois Kress as chief executive officer earlier this month, Emilie Rubinfeld was promoted to president and Lauren Astry Sorensen took on the role

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

Get ready for another season of this cool collab.

But he’s going with a more traditional venue this season.

An Eighties youth subculture from the American West known as the drag rats — homeless youth tribes that jumped freight trains to travel the country — served as the core theme of this season’s collection for Krammer & Stoudt.
Mike Brodie’s photography book, “A Period of Juvenile Prosperity” was a starting point.
The style was defined by a mixture of updated workwear including cropped trousers that resembled military fatigues, dark plaid trucker jackets and denim shirts with a Western influence.
A boho sensibility was also present through the use of heavy layering of perfectly disheveled shirts, jackets and the occasional long john shown under baggy cropped pants.
Most of the looks were accessorized with the mandatory beanie and bandana-print neck handkerchiefs to reinforce the Americana feel.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

Private Policy continued to deliver a social message this season through its collection. This time, New York-based designers Haoran Li and Siying Qu tackled globalization, attempting to bring their downtown sensibility to other parts of the world.
“We travel a lot, to Paris, Tokyo and Shanghai and we care about what’s going on in the world,” Qu said.
Models’ faces were marked with labels such as Nerdy, Sneaky, Shy, Terrorist and Refugees to reinforce the brand’s mission statement.
The lineup was youthful with vivid neon colors, and the brand played with proportions, offering a double-layered bomber jacket with a quilted peel-back layer that played on a reversible jacket. Deconstructed sleeves and unfinished denim were also found throughout the collection.
The feeling of imprisonment they used in the spring collection was carried over to fall through the use of chains and snap-button hardware, as well as a plastic shield that was conveyed as a bulletproof vest.
The highlight of the collection was a motorcycle jacket and pants made of world flags that nailed the overall message of the brand.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

Julian Woodhouse’s last collection was quite conceptual. The Seoul-based, American designer who served as an executive officer in the U.S. Army — he recently got out — had offered an Art Deco-influenced lineup in an array of forward silhouettes. But now he wants to make things more palatable for the male of today.
“I usually use ephemeral concepts to create my collections,” Woodhouse said. “But this time I looked out of my window and thought, ‘I want to design for the guy right now.’”
The Wood House guy wears on-trend ath-leisure staples — joggers, sweatshirts and parkas — but they are enlivened with drawstrings that lace up around the leg, color-blocked panels and heavy hardware. Tongue-in-cheek messaging showed up on a pink sweatshirt, which stated: “You don’t want to f–k with this little piggie,” and on a collar, which said “All Choked Up.” Outerwear, which was strong, included velvet, perforated bombers, pleather jackets and long coats with zip-off bottoms that can be worn two ways.
Wood House’s show notes reiterated today’s confusing political climate, which has caused him, and many others, angst. His solution is to do things differently to change his perception. He brought that to his collection, which looked familiar but offered

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

“We wanted it to be fun,” said Jon McKinney, the North American president for David Naman, an Italian men’s wear brand that debuted at New York Men’s Day last season in an attempt to build up its U.S. presence — the family-owned apparel company operates 100 stores across Europe. “It’s very serious out there right now.”
This collection, which had a subtle Seventies influence, focused on texture, color and accessories. Models wore velvet blazers, teal peacoats, maroon corduroy pants and jogger pants adorned with zippers.
Messaging, a trend that’s bubbled up on the first day of NYFW: Men’s, was also apparent. The number six, which was placed on a denim jacket with a fur collar and a sweatshirt, represented the birth of Naman’s sixth grandson — he was hoping for a granddaughter — and a gray overcoat was covered in Amy Winehouse and AC/DC references. Accessories included olive backpacks and velvet camo knapsacks.
Was the collection fun? Yes. Was it focused or inventive? No.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

R.Swiader’s debut collection was a nod to the Mod and punk rock movements that included nontraditional basics and British utilitarian pieces in plaids and tartans.
“I wanted to marry British punk and Parisian romance while preparing a gang of street fighters for a peaceful revolution,” said New York-based designer Rafal Swiader.
Although the collection had a punk theme with red flannels and dark tweed fabrics, soft cashmere also played a starring role, in a mock turtleneck paired with oversize check shirt and khaki trousers, and a topcoat with a leopard knit.
Although it was his first collection, Swiader successfully created a relaxed and easy-going offering that left us hopeful for even better things in the future.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…