In an exclusive inspirations sketch provided to WWD, designer Chelsea Goldman noted that fall took its cues from “classic dressmaking from the 18th century with a focus on traditional skills.” At her first formal presentation, she added references to Dutch masterworks and that of John Currin’s expressive figures, all of which gave the lineup its Victorian charm. A play on voluminous silhouettes kept it fresh.
It appears many designers are moving away from body-conscious silhouettes in favor of oversized treatments and a relaxed attitude. Save for the soft-boned corsets that provide an instantaneous cool factor to those brave enough to pull one off, Goldman’s collection appeared approachable, and for the most part, practical (sheer hot pink ensembles trimmed with feathers, though editorially friendly, don’t come to mind as casual daywear, but provided a jolt of energy nonetheless). Feathers worked better attached to sheer overlays styled over simple shirting and pants. “If there’s a way to make it feel modern, I wanted to do it,” Goldman mused.
Other key elements included shirting with big sleeves, cinched at the waist or styled with a corset; a floral pattern, produced at a 17th-century mill in London — the same that sources to Buckingham Palace, and
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Christian Cowan made a splashy debut at New York Fashion Week. It couldn’t have been anything less by virtue of his aesthetic — Barbie hits the club hard with her fabulous drag queen friends. But the spectacle was enhanced by the fact that an improbable number of top-tier editors were there (courtesy of Mickey Boardman spreading the word) to witness Cowan take the plunge. Oh, and Paris Hilton walked the show. Not bad for the first-ever fashion week show and ready-to-wear collection by a very recent London College of Fashion graduate.
Cowan turned some heads with his one-off custom work for Lady Gaga and Miley Cyrus, but with fall 2017, he’s attempted to tip-toe off the stage and into reality. He got as far as the after party. “I’ve maintained some of those high editorial looks, but I’m starting to show clothes that a real woman can wear,” Cowan said backstage. “I always say the clothes are what a woman would wear when she wants to be complimented, like everyone can’t help but say something.”
Yes, a glittery shift dress emblazoned with Caitlyn Jenner’s face on the front and the word “Free” ranked as a conversation starter. People will talk if you show
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Nicholas and Christopher Kunz harken back to the Nineties. As they recall in their program notes, it was a time when there was “the promise of a global humanitarian community; communal diversity and unity.” They are among the designers who do not hesitate to point out that “recent events seem to unravel this progress.”
How does this show up in their fall collection for Nicholas K? In its African vibe; in their continued use of eco-conscious fabrics — organic cottons, silks, undyed cashmere and faux leather, and their signature sweeping, layering and wrapping. But the wrapping was relentless: in fabric mixes around the hips of slipdresses or pants; sweaters encircling the shoulder…anything, anywhere that could be wrapped and tied became the focus.. What was unwrapped, however, worked beautifully: flowing long-sleeved caftans in sheer earth-toned silk, slender panne velvet dresses and long gray cotton shirtdresses.
The designers showed bronze and gold metallic foil leather pants; thigh-high, spike-heeled boots and biker jackets combined with nose rings and huge hoop earrings. Their attempt at fierce blurred the best of show; they should have stopped at cool.
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Looking back through Adam Selman’s collections, it was about a year-and-a-half ago that something clicked. He got consistent, started carving out signature items. The endearingly unrefined bubblegum bad-girl attitude on which he arrived remained in tact, but everything became more streamlined. At his fall runway show — his strongest yet — it became clear: He’s becoming a brand.
“Baby steps,” Selman said backstage, pointing out the rose-embroidered Chuck Taylors he did in partnership with Converse. “They’re only for the show, not for sale.” Even so, he made big strides in real branding, for the first time developing subtle buttons, patches and rivets bearing the Adam Selman logo for the lineup’s nifty range of denim. All of it — the show-opening biker jacket that tied at the waist and cuffed jeans; a great wrap denim trench; a cowgirl shirt; a workwear jumpsuit with a fitted top and wide legs — was classic stoned-washed blue, embroidered with red roses. A big inspiration was the 1975 book “American Denim,” which focuses on folky, hippie-ish customization of denim. Selman’s versions were fresh and cheerful with a mild western vibe — in line with the current moment of novelty, faux DIY’d jeans without feeling desperate to cash
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A T-shirt, a pair of jeans and a leather jacket — this is the uniform of the ultimate New York woman, according to Louis Terline, who cofounded Oak with Jeff Madalena. Inspired by the powerful woman populating the city, the designers developed a range of urban essentials, including an oversized puffer worn over a denim asymmetric double-breasted jacket; a tailored camel coat layered under a leather vest; and a narrow front-button denim skirt with a feminine bow at the belt. A workwear inspiration echoed in a jumpsuit with utility pockets, while a cropped ribbed wool sweater had a Nineties’ vibe. The lineup, which also included paper-bag-waist corduroy pants and zippered hoodies, offered a wearable wardrobe that also tapped into the current streetwear trend.
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NEW PLATFORM: Curated Crowd has launched a crowdfunding and e-commerce platform for emerging designers, WWD has learned.
The concept was led by chief executive officer and cofounder Ada Yi Zhao and Kristina Kuzmina, who believed that there was another avenue for new labels to launch globally. The platform, which offers e-commerce, will launch brands including Poan, Ksenevich Millinery, JN by JN Llovet, LubiMenya and Naked Bruce.
“[Digitization] and technology are transforming almost every single industry today, from financial to medical industries,” said Zhao. “Yes, the fashion industry as one of the most influential ones in the world is struggling to cope with such changes. Curated Crowd was born to maximize the power of [digitization] and to empower the two key players in the fashion ecosystem: designers and consumers. The idea is cut out the traditional middleman to enable designers with authentic brand stories to connect with their fashion consumer patrons directly.
“Curated Crowd is looking to be the next disruptor of the fashion-tech industry, following great examples such as Net-a-porter and FarFetch,” added Zhao. “The business is determined to address the significant inefficiencies in the traditional fashion supply chain and bring back the long-lost authentic conversations between designers and patrons, with the power
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NEW YORK — Imagine a world where runway shows take a back seat during fashion week.
It’s happening. And fast. The same-ole-same-ole format of models loping, strutting or moping down a runway is rapidly being supplanted by a series of splashy digital-focused programs rolling out in the weeks and days leading up to a show (as well as during and immediately after). This — coupled with largely consumer-facing initiatives — is the new norm.
There is social media activity on every platform — from Snapchat and Instagram to Facebook, YouTube and Twitter; influencers in the front row; influencers moonlighting as models walking down runways in some designers’ shows; virtual reality tie-ins; drones; apps built expressly for fashion week to facilitate e-commerce; photo booths; in-store activations, and sometimes even other retailers involved.
Which means that if a designer relies solely on the runway to fuel digital chatter, they need to think again. The fashion show is becoming a vehicle to reinforce everything else, with consumers invited to participate, share on their own social channels and even immediately buy the items they see on the runway if they wish.
It’s become the only way to stand out in the cacophony of shows and presentations taking place during New York Fashion Week through Feb.
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DOUBLE DUTY: Kate Spade has a solution to the pressing question: Do we show “see-now-buy-now” or next season’s merchandise? The company will take over the entire Russian Tea Room in Manhattan on Friday to showcase both the spring 2017 and fall 2017 collections on separate floors.
The brand has partnered with Victoria Justice who will host a shoppable and interactive Facebook Live experience that will take consumers behind the scenes of their presentation, where she will also interact with guests such as Leighton Meester, Jamie Chung and Camilla Belle. As merchandise appears on-camera, a link will pop up that will allow shoppers to explore the product on a microsite, katespadespring2017.com, and for purchase on katespade.com.
“We wanted the Facebook Live experience to offer our followers an intimate, in-depth look at a day-in-the-life of a Kate Spade New York girl during New York Fashion Week, all while showcasing our newest selection of see-now-buy-now product,” said Deborah Lloyd, president and chief creative officer of Kate Spade New York.
The microsite also has an exclusive look at Lloyd’s trip to Morocco that inspired the spring collection.
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MUMBAI — Fashion weeks in India have been trying different things over the last few years, experimenting with location, physical spaces and timelines.
This season it was the turn of Lakme Fashion Week resort, which ran from Feb. 1 to 5, to try something new as it opened at Jio Garden in Bandra Kurla in Mumbai. This was a first for a more open venue spread across a larger space, with the exhibition area adjoining the main runway area.
At the previous location at the St. Regis Hotel, the main stage and exhibition areas were on different levels. Prior to that, at the Grand Hyatt, a considerable walk separated the different areas.
The new format this year provided the opportunity for more exhibitions, with 95 booths, up almost 30 percent from the previous 70.
In the large central square was a stage for live music, and a yellow Lamborghini which quickly became a landmark for those seeking to find each other and for celebrities to pose against.
“The move to Jio Garden reaffirms our commitment to the business of fashion with a larger area for buyers and designers to meet. Everything this season has been bigger and further pushed the boundaries of what a fashion event
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