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Nicholas Daley’s collection for fall was an ode to the jazz culture, drawing inspiration from likes of Miles Daves, Thelonious Monk, John Coltrane as well as “Red Clay” — one of his favorite jazz albums by Freddie Hubbard. Daley, who has a strong affinity for textiles, also delved into the history of tweed.
Linking the two together, Daley referenced photos of a Scottish Shetland farmer wearing a tweed baker boy hat and images of Davis donning the same style. Daley took cues from the musical genre and tweed fabrications in an abstract and literal sense.
The designer’s fascination with tweed and jazz resulted in a well-constructed and colorful lineup of separates and suiting full of supple textures and fabrics. Daley made elements of an older gentleman’s wardrobe young, cool and relevant and reused classic craftsmanship in a more contemporary way.
His presentation held at the Swiss Church felt more like a concert with jazz musicians such as Yussef Dayes, Mansur Brown, Alfa Mist and Shabaka Hutchings playing a live set for the crowd — all donned in his fall range.
He developed a custom herringbone tweed employed on coats, jackets and trousers and created knitwear styles that came in the rich hues of Blue

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Pronounce designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou made their second appearance at London Fashion Week: Men’s as guests of GQ China. Their vibrant collection, a mish-mash of colors, textures and styles, blended in with the city’s anything-goes attitude.
Loose tailored pieces were updated in eye-popping pinks and purples and matched with less formal items such as puffers and long belted cardigans — a styling approach that mirrored an ongoing trend on the London catwalks this season, which focuses on a more relaxed, mix-and-match attitude when it comes to tailoring.
The designers also continued to infuse elements inspired by their Chinese heritage in the range, which included traditional Mao suit jackets that blended in nicely with more traditional wide-leg tailored pants.
Texture played a key role, too, with velvet and wool oversized jackets mixed with metallic leather, worn denim or shiny pink patent leather to create heavily layered looks.

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Founder and designer Samuel Ross looked at the juxtaposition of a raw and industrial worksite alongside a traditional art gallery for fall.
“It was about British architecture, council estates and interpreting how you can take something from a more working class context and place it into a gallery environment,” said Ross.
The designer examined how clothing could be recut and reinterpreted using workwear and construction shapes. This resulted in a cool, sporty lineup of separates and strong outerwear pieces for an urban explorer done in burnt, earthy and industrial tones.
To set the scene, models walked down the runway next to long metal construction beams, which were laid out on the floor of the BFC show space at 180 Strand.
Fabrications were key for Ross, who wanted his material palette to grow. He experimented with fabrics such as digitally printed wools and also looked at new technical nylons as well as leather. He placed more of a focus on technical apparel and played with embellishments and treatments like boiled hand-threaded wools, thermo-reactive nylons, exaggerated pockets and logos used as graphic details on jackets.
For women’s wear, there was a sheer white button-down shirt worn with cargo pants with utility pockets while a long-sleeve khaki dress

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Kudos to all the bicycle couriers out there. “Every time I see the courier delivery guys making deliveries, or guys from Amazon, DHL or FedEx, they always look so fashionable,” explained Michiko Koshino of the bicycle-riding muses behind her fall 2018 collection.
The Japanese designer looked to cyclists’ staples like three-quarter-length pants, racing jerseys and PVC raincoats for fall, simultaneously mining her 30-year-old brand’s archives for details.
The result was a collection of artfully mismatched fabrics, sporty shapes, unexpected color pairings and quirky styling (see packing tape as bangles and bubble wrap as shin guards), that will be a hit with her fan base.
Neon-bright pink, orange or green nylon, a nod to the high-vis safety garments worn by cyclists, were used for puffy outerwear, tied around the waist or styled in complicated layering configurations akin to boys who focus more on speed than style.
PVC raincoats, either sheer or transparent, topped satin bombers, or came printed with bar codes and exposed bare skin beneath.
Koshino also drew on her archives, nodding to her signature inflatable coats in styles like knickerbockers, gathered beneath the knee with drawstrings, that had air-filled cushions acting as knee pads, and a black-and-white check derived from her car racing-inspired Motorking

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Charles Jeffrey set the scene for another eccentric and over-the-top show by seating mock critics at bistro tables on the catwalk. They entered snorting with disgust, huffing in exasperation or gesturing with utmost annoyance. Sound familiar? Once The Prodigy’s “Firestarter” started blasting, the faux editors proceeded to scream and applaud in frenzied adoration or gag in disgust as the looks came down the runway.
It was an arch comment on a fickle press and the accolades recently enjoyed by Jeffrey, who was awarded the trophy for Emerging Talent at the recent Fashion Awards in London, presented by one of Jeffrey’s heroes, John Galliano, whose work at Dior was alluded to in the elegant silhouettes, theatrical styling and corsetry details.
This was a sophisticated outing from a rapidly evolving designer. Showing both his gender-ambiguous men’s wear with an expanded women’s wear offering, Jeffrey confidently married the exhibitionism and flamboyance of gay culture with traditional Scottish hallmarks like tartans, kilts and Pictish symbols, throwing military details and slick references to historical dress into the mix, too.
Tailoring and outerwear were especially well-executed. A navy suit with a peak-lapel jacket fastened with a kilt pin and wide trousers looked as though it had been riddled with bullets, while a

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The Accessories Council has created an innovation committee that will spearhead a new mentorship program aimed at supporting young talent.
The six-month mentorship program, called the Accessories Innovation Committee, will leverage the Accessories Council’s industry contacts — aiding emerging talent by growing their networks and business acumen.
The Accessories Innovation Committee’s advisory board includes Karen Giberson, president at Accessories Council; Jay Lakhani, designer and founder at Deepa Gurnani; Carrie Sporer, brand strategy consultant and founder at CS Consulting; Charlie Roberts, product director at ECHO Design Group; Florence Shin, cofounder at Covry; Freida Rothman, founder and designer at Freida Rothman Jewelry; Heather Hubbard, chief executive officer, founder and design/product development at MR Handbags; Jonathan Meizler, founder and creative director at Title of Work; Katie Falchi, president and chief designer at Carlos Falchi Couture, and Kim Lai, creative director at Jaunt.
Giberson said: “The Accessories Council is proud to launch the Accessories Innovation Committee, a team of dynamic executives who represent the future of our industry. The AIC’s first project is a mentoring program that will commence this month featuring nine young brands that were chosen as ‘the ones to watch.’ The AIC’s goal for this mentoring program is to provide a support network for

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FUR ZONE: Fur may be falling out of fashion, with brands including Gucci and Michael Kors promising to eschew it in favor of the faux stuff, but not everyone is giving it up.
Following her men’s wear show in London, the Danish designer Astrid Andersen hosted a Champagne reception at the Mandrake Hotel to showcase a collaboration with the Finnish company Saga Furs.
Guests included the Swedish actress Noomi Rapace, who is the face of Andersen’s small, bespoke fur collection, while grime artist Giggs from southeast London performed a set.
The standout piece from the collection was a checked coat in mustard gold, pink and palomino, with a black fur collar. Other pieces included a checked jacket with a fur lapel, and a gold and pink fur scarf. The furs used were a mix of raccoon, mink and fox.
Andersen said she worked with Saga because they are one of the only auction houses that give their furs a bar code. Customers on the shop floor can scan the tag and trace the origins of the fur. “When you buy a fur coat you need some kind of guarantee,” said the designer, adding that she believes the future is bright for fur.
“I think fur

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PURE FICTION: The first of the nine episodes of “The Assassination of Gianni Versace: American Crime Story” premieres on Jan. 17 on FX, and the Milan-based house of Versace on Monday released an official statement to clarify its stance.
“The Versace family has not authorized nor has it in any way been involved in the TV series dedicated to the death of Gianni Versace,” said the company. “Since Versace has not authorized the book from which it is partially drawn and has not taken part in writing the script, this TV series must be considered a work of fiction.”
This confirms comments made to WWD in October 2016. It is understood no legal action is being taken against the program.
The book Versace refers to is “Vulgar Favors” by Vanity Fair writer Maureen Orth, published in 1999, two years after the designer’s murder in Miami in 1997 at the hands of serial killer Andrew Cunanan. The series is directed by Ryan Murphy and comes on the heels of the Emmy-winning “People v. O.J. Simpson: American Crime Story,” the opening episode of which was also directed by Murphy.
Gianni Versace is played by Edgar Ramírez and Versace’s partner Antonio D’Amico is played by Ricky Martin. Penélope Cruz stars as Versace’s

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SHOE-IN: Lacoste is looking to gird its footwear business by forming a joint venture with its longtime global licensee for the category, Britain’s Pentland Group.
The move reflects Lacoste’s strategy to push for better integration with its various license holders, which also include Coty for fragrances, Movado Group for watches and Marchon for eyewear.
The new venture will be based out of Pentland’s London headquarters, according to a statement released Monday. Pentland will oversee the creation and production of the brand’s footwear lines as well as distribution in Britain. Lacoste will handle distribution in its main territories.
Andy Long, chief executive officer of Pentland Brands, said the move “demonstrates the strength of the relationship between Pentland and the Lacoste Group, which is the result of 26 years of collaboration since 1991.”
Thierry Guibert, president of Lacoste Group, said the venture is fully in line with the group’s “strategic project which aims to promote the brand’s prestige and optimize the coordination of all product categories, thus reinforcing the Lacoste style everywhere in the world.”
With annual sales of $3 billion across 190 countries, Pentland Brands — a third-generation, family-owned business — counts Berghaus Canterbury of New Zealand, Speedo, Boxfresh, Ellesse, Kangaroos, Mitre and Red or Dead

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PARIS – Fans of high tech, streetwear and street culture in mourning for Colette, rejoice. Two former employees of the recently shuttered store are harnessing their collective 23 years of experience working there for a cutting-edge, men’s-oriented concept store on Paris’ Rue Cambon dubbed Nous, which means “us” in French.
Though many of the items fall under the unisex bracket, women’s clothing and beauty products are not in the cards. Spanning artist skateboards by The Skateroom, 51,000-euro customized Rolexes by Bamford, and sweatshirts by Daily Paper, the relatively pared-back offer reads like Colette sans the kawaii. Opening with a magazine rack and table of books dedicated to street culture, other items on sale include candles by Mizensir, diamond pendants by Eyefunny and an exclusive cannabis-flavored Champagne dubbed Critical by Rozoy & Picot.
Sébastien Chapelle, who helmed Colette’s high-tech and watches pole for 14 years, and Marvin Dein, who was in charge of the store’s streetwear and sneakers pole for nine years, have joined forces as the store’s director and manager, respectively, bringing in a number of members of the Colette team. A deep-pocketed loyal Colette customer is said to have financed the project. The private investor is based in Europe, Dein said.
The store had its soft opening

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