Lucas Ossendrijver, in one of his strongest collections yet, embraced the season’s protectionist spirit for his turn navigating the Lanvin ship, with the fate of the beleaguered house still hanging in the air.
Tumbling tailoring and activewear references, the designer layered utilitarian padded vests and ponchos over coats and suits in a range of classic, striped gray cool wool suiting fabrics.
Cool roomy multimedia parkas sported the word “Someday” at the back.
There were elegant plays on plaids and checks in a characteristic mish-mash of ideas, with Ossendrijver injecting strong staple pieces into the mix, like a stunning double-breasted camel coat.
An anorak snapped open with a shearling lining peeling back was ultra cozy with a technical blend. Ditto for the great oversize cream sleeveless anoraks layered over suits in tonal colors.
Channeling Nineties street was a look pairing a high-waisted brown pant and beige vest over a graphic T-shirt with super large boxy sleeves, accessorized with a collapsed knitted bucket hat.
Head turners in this resume-building collection, which married utility and modernity with tradition, included the knits, tilted to the side.
The layered silhouettes looked “real” but up close were highly detailed and precisely designed, and that’s one of the defining features of Ossendrijver’s work: His
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…
“It’s just a pastiche of different things I am into,” said Henri Alexander, in describing the inspiration for his fall collection. “I feel like I got into this kind of Bauhaus, Twenties, Thirties, Forties aesthetic this season with Rauschenberg-style graphics and even Kandinsky paintings with the checkers.”
He added checker motifs were Ska influenced, as well, and that his brand — whose name in English means Depressed Rich Kids — has an ongoing relationship with chessboards à la René Magritte or Marcel Duchamp. Throw in the music Alexander likes, a touch of Fifties fashion silhouettes and you have his pool of influences — of the moment.
The designer makes clothing he wants to wear himself. “For me it is really important that this is like real clothing,” he said.
Standouts included a cool checkerboard blouson mixing matte and shiny squares, graphic knits and, for women, a cute mini crafted from men’s ties.
Alexander’s signature rock aesthetic was on full form, from the skinny stripe pants to more literal nods, like a John Lennon sweater, with a strong leather offer.
Enfants Riches Déprimés just signed to open its first store, on Paris’ Rue Charlot.
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…
Paul Smith channeled several of his youthful obsessions — Sixties couture and the psychedelic pop scene — in his men’s fall collection, which he showed alongside women’s looks.
But there was nothing backward-looking about the display, held in a raw industrial space in the Cité de la Mode et du Design. The outfits, which fused precise yet wearable tailoring with saturated color, made a powerful argument for dressing up in an era when bathrobes count as outerwear.
The opening look, an austere black coat with satiny pleats down one side, set the bar in terms of cut and technique. Backstage after the show, Smith — who as a 20-year-old attended Yves Saint Laurent’s first show — explained that its lapel was pad-stitched rather than fused, a detail only connoisseurs will appreciate.
“I wear a suit every day and have done for 100 years, and I’m completely aware of what’s going on in the world, and we understand it, but I just wanted to play with the tailoring again,” he said.
“I think in many places we’ve lost the way of dressing,” Smith added. “What I want is to be able to dress up and feel like you look special.”
Using men’s wear fabrics manufactured in
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…
New sneaker debuts at Y-3 included the Bynder with a leather upper and hand-stitched elements, and the BYW basketball silhouette. But the big news was the new Carbon 4-D technology used on some of the soles.
Backstage, Nic Galway, senior vice president of global design at Adidas Originals, joined by Yohji Yamamoto, described Carbon 4-D as “almost growing sneakers from liquid.”
“We’ve had this period of 3-D printing, but with how things are evolving, Adidas — closely linking itself with partners — really is at the cutting edge of innovation,” he said, explaining the process as the sole of the shoe being drawn from the liquid. “As it hits the air, it starts to form into the structures.
“There are no molds. It’s at the very early stages, but we’re already producing, and in the future we [will be able to] tune every single sole to your bodyweight, shape, how you run,” he added. “We really want to connect that with our world, because here we can show different perspectives. If it’s only for the athlete, there are so many rules. In our world, we’re allowed to explore and have a different freedom.”
The clothes, meanwhile, were more cozy and protective than technical in
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…
NEW MAN: She’s officially in town for the Azzedine Alaïa exhibition on Sunday, but Cindy Crawford still managed to squeeze in time for Balmain’s men’s show on Saturday night, joining guests including Sasha Luss, Wilbert Pan, Patrick Gibson and Orlando Bloom.
Dressed in black leather pants and a tweed Balmain jacket, the evergreen supermodel chatted about how far men’s fashion has come over the past few years. “We don’t live in an equal world, right, but one of the places where women have more than men is in our fashion choices. My husband usually picks from one of 20 blue shirts. For Olivier [Rousteing], the way he sees men’s fashion is it gives them permission to have fun and be a little more ornate. It’s not staid, in some weird way it’s more unisex,” she said. “I think the same principles he uses to design his women’s collection, he applies to his men’s fashion as well. It’s not like he thinks, ‘Oh, now I’m doing men’s, I have to think differently,’” added Crawford who nonetheless likes to stay all woman when it comes to fashion. Asked if she ever wears men’s clothes, she demurred: “I like to wear women’s clothes.”
Framed by
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
GRACE’S GALS: Grace Wales Bonner is breaking into women’s wear, according to her label’s social media account.
The London-based men’s designer posted an image of a model wearing a white tailored shirt jacket with black trousers and wrote in the caption “Introducing Wales Bonner Women’s Wear.” She did not return a request for comment over the weekend.
For Matches, she has revamped certain pieces from her spring 2018 men’s line — such as her denim and velvet looks — with a softer and more feminine take, according to the retailer’s site.
Bonner presented her fall collection earlier this month during London Fashion Week Men’s. It focused on a story of a black sailor returning to land, and trying to make sense of his identity along the way. The collection was more fluid and relaxed compared to her previous efforts.
She graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2014 and that same year won the L’Oréal Professionnel Talent Award. The following year, Wales Bonner won Emerging Men’s Wear Designer at the British Fashion Awards and in 2016 scooped the LVMH Young Designer Prize.
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
ON DISPLAY: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren’s celebrations for the 25th anniversary of their Viktor & Rolf label will see their designs go on display at Rotterdam’s Kunsthal starting May 27. The “Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Artists 25 Years” retrospective will expand on their exhibition in Melbourne, Australia, last year and focuses on their conception of “wearable art.”
Curated by Thierry-Maxime Loriot, the expo will feature more than 45 haute couture pieces, stage costumes, the duo’s earlier designs as well as special pieces, such as a costume they created for Madonna in 2016 for her Miami Art Basel fund-raising concert. New works from recent collections will also be included, as will a selection of pieces from their work-in-progress “Dolls,” which are replicas of antique dolls dressed in Viktor & Rolf’s most distinctive looks. The exhibition will run until Sept. 30.
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
PARIS — One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Hedi Slimane is to lead Céline into men’s wear, couture and fragrance as its new artistic, creative and image director, WWD has learned.
He is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week.
“I am enchanted, what a great choice,” said Karl Lagerfeld, one of Slimane’s most enthusiastic fans, who famously shed 90 pounds in order to shimmy into his slim tailoring. “It will be great.”
It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation — and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade — as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the Kering-owned house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 — all the while maintaining a close rapport with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior.
In a curious twist of fate, Slimane will be reunited with Sidney Toledano, the legendary chief executive officer of Dior, who recruited the designer to propel the storied couture house into men’s fashion.
Toledano is to relinquish his role to Pietro Beccari,
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
SANTA ANA – Mater Dei, the No.1-ranked girls basketball team in the county, hosted No. 2 Brea Olinda on Saturday night, and for half of the game it played out like the battle many expected between the county powers.
But in the second half, Mater Dei used its major height advantage and deep bench to wear down the Ladycats.
The Monarchs held Brea Olinda to five second-half field goals and pulled away to a 71-47 victory in the nonleague contest.
Mater Dei’s Brooke Demetre, center, puts up a shot over Brea Olinda’s Terree Johnson, left, and Sydney Skipper, right, in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Brea Olinda’s Casey Fust, center, controls the rebound in front of Mater Dei’s Brooke Demetre, left, and Cailyn Crocker in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Mater Dei players cheer as their team scores a basket in the fourth period against Brea Olinda in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Mater Dei’s Cailyn Crocker reacts after scoring against Brea Olinda in the fourth period in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
A rebound rolls off the everybodys fingers including Mater Dei’s Brooke Demetre, center, and Brea Olinda’s Rilee Price, second from right, in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Alyssa Frescas, left, of Mater Dei controls the rebound as Brea Olinda’s Casey Fust tries to shake the ball loose in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Brea Olinda’s Sydney Skipper, center is squeezed by Mater Dei’s Emma Torbert, left, and Brooke Demetre, right, as she tries to move toward the basket in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
Mater Dei’s Brooke Demetre, center, and Brea Olinda’s Sydney Skipper, left, and Stephanie Lee, right, reach for a rebound in Santa Ana on Saturday, January 20, 2018. (Photo by Paul Rodriguez, Orange County Register/SCNG)
of
Expand
Mater Dei (16-3) outrebounded the Ladycats (16-3), 40-19.
“I think we kind of got the kind of game we wanted in the second half,” Mater Dei coach Kevin Kiernan said. “We had the size advantage inside and we started to beat them up a little bit.”
Monarchs senior forward Emma Torbert scored 16 points and pulled down 13 rebounds, both game highs. She was one of three Mater Dei starters, all at least 6 feet tall, to make a significant impact on the game.
Mater Dei freshman guard Khylee Pepe, who is 6-foot, scored nine points and had 10 rebounds, and 6-foot-2 freshman guard Brooke Demetre contributed 13 points and eight rebounds.
“In the first half we really weren’t going after the offensive boards,” Torbert said. “We were just taking one shot and going back on defense. So the second half we made the adjustment and worked really hard to get more offensive rebounds and more than one shot.”
The contest was physical, especially in the paint, where the Ladycats held their own in the first half.
A basket and free throw by Sydney Skipper gave the Ladycats the lead at 24-23.
Iyree Jarrett’s basket gave Brea Olinda a 27-25 lead late in the second quarter, but the Monarchs led 31-27 at halftime.
They held the Ladycats to one basket from the field and seven points in the third quarter to extend their lead to 42-34.
The Monarchs, who are ranked No. 6 in CIF-SS Division 1, have defeated four county top-10 teams.
