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For the fall season, Frederick Anderson imagined a modern-day army of women, head to toe in his garments, all with blonde hair. “The Blonde Brigade,” he named it, but not in the old-fashioned, derogatory manner. Anderson was obsessed not with the act of a woman dyeing her hair nor the specific bright blonde color, but the message of power for the woman behind it. “Women are choosing their own destiny,” he claimed. His brigade acted as his own personal brand army, clad in clothes with military and biker references mixed with femininity.
Silhouettes ranged from the more sporty, via bombers and a great pair of Army green trousers with athletic and moto stripe details, to the flirty, like a bubblegum pink and navy lace shirtdress. Military came into the collection via military prints and utility pockets, like on a tailored dress or elevated cargo pant; tweed was another element seen throughout but didn’t translate as well when paired with athletic striped bands. His best evening interpretations came as a short button-up dress and floor-length skirt in a lightweight, sheer black lace chiffon with ample fringe.

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The designers behind Tse are looking at the long game, deciding to focus on one designer or idea as inspiration for multiple, or possibly even a year’s worth, of collections. As of pre-fall, this designer was James Turrell. For fall, the collection was centered around “Roden Crater,” Turrell’s large-scale artwork inside of an extinct volcano in Arizona; more specifically, around the gradation of light seen from different times of the day in his work. This resulted in concentration on the gradation of colors and textures into their meticulous ready-to-wear.
While last season’s collection included a plethora of bright hues, fall was purposely more natural, with espresso browns, mauves, blacks and whites, in order for the two lines to sit well together in stores. Repetition was seen throughout in rich knit separates, like a sweater dress that went from beige to grey or grey to pale blue. Textures also graduated on the languid silhouettes from silk to cashmere to brushed cashmere, layered with rabbit fur arm warmers and stoles, in the cardigans, sweaters and skirts. The collection was vast, with silks and chunkier, woven knits throughout. Overall, the collection yet again proved the strength behind consistency and subtle details for the

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Conversations between Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones and a group of 25 “bold, confident, creative and smart” women who they consider to embody the spirit of Teatum Jones sparked the designers’ fall collection. “Through these conversations about their lives and their favorite pieces from our past collections, and how they made them feel, we realized joy, sadness and hope are the three emotions that unite them all,” Teatum told WWD.
Those three emotions translated into the three “chapters” of color in the collection, which featured many of the brand’s greatest hits, like signature oversize statement coats, fluid dresses, elongated sleeves and knitwear with cutout sleeves, all in the beautiful fabrications that earned Teatum Jones the 2016 International Woolmark Prize and a BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund grant last year.
The show began with joy, in a palette of raspberry, red, pink and cornflower blue; sadness was expressed through near-black navy, royal blue and ivory, and hope was all shades of white and cream, florals and a flash of mustard in a trouser suit.
Sleeves were full, gathered and draped in fluid silks, while tailoring was just as compelling, with elegantly belted jackets given cutouts at the elbows and, in the case of a white evening suit,

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PARIS — Le Bon Marché is celebrating fashion’s renewed love affair with logos with an event featuring exclusive products by 130 brands.
The “Let’s Go Logo!” exhibition, set to run from Feb. 24 to April 1, will showcase capsule collections with playful variations on brand logos and unexpected products, including Isabel Marant gardening gloves, an AMI Alexandre Mattiussi scooter helmet and Guerlain honey.
It features two guests of honor: Off-White designer Virgil Abloh, who has created a temporary store including the brand’s first cafe; and Rami Mekdachi’s lifestyle brand Lola James Harper, which has designed a lounge space, with an area to record music and shoot hoops, as a taster for its future Paris hotel.
Jennifer Cuvillier, style director at Le Bon Marché, said the retailer started working on the idea a year ago, and watched the phenomenon snowball in the last 12 months.
“It’s a huge trend this season, with logos appearing on all kinds of products in fashion, whether luxury brands or designer labels, ready-to-wear or accessories. In every sector, the logo is king,” she told WWD.
“The approach has evolved since the Eighties,” she added. “Nowadays, logos are very visual, big, unexpected and fun, which I think is linked to the explosion

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From iconic monuments and streets to legendary hangout spots, designers share with WWD their favorite things to see and do and where to go in Milan.

Antonio Marras 
Courtesy Photo.

“The Duomo cathedral and Alain and Jeanne in ‘Rocco and His Brothers.’ The Duomo is the iconic symbol of Milan for everybody, but most of all for us coming from the suburb. Pictures of parents during their honeymoon in the Duomo square with pigeons are present in most Italian homes. The magnificence of the Duomo meets the Ghisolfa Bridge area, a former run-down suburb where all the emigrants from Southern Italy landed, the set of Luchino Visconti’s movie adapted from Testori’s novel. An unforgettable movie, set in a sad, gloomy and heartrending Milan.” — Antonio Marras

Veronica Etro 
Courtesy Photo

“I chose the Triennale since it is a cultural institution, which pays a lot of attention to kids and educational-laden activities for them. I also love its restaurant and the beautiful terrace overlooking the park” — Veronica Etro, creative director, Etro

Antonio Berardi 
Courtesy Photo.

“The thing about Milan is, the higher you look, the more beautiful it becomes. My Milan is best experienced with my bull-terrier Bruno, an aperitivo in hand, and La Madonnina in sight!” — Antonio

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BRIGHT YOUNG THINGS: Emerging designers at London Fashion Week’s fall 2018 showcase showed off looks stretching from the traditional and tailored to Seventies-inspired.
Steventai
Taking a cue from his native Macau, the designer made oversize clothing and played with construction as seen on an enlarged granddad corduroy blazer worn with silky oversize camel trousers and soft rib collar blouse. He balanced rich reds and yellows — the vibrant colors of Macau — with soft pastels that reflect the island’s Portuguese building facades.
Sentaler
This Canadian brand, a favorite of the Duchess of Cambridge and her soon-to-be sister-in-law Meghan Markle, unveiled a luxe fall 2018 collection through private appointments with Bojana Sentaler. The Toronto-based designer said she was inspired by the Seventies, and played with the label’s signature ribbed detailing across an entire coat. Other new styles included a bomber with alpaca sleeves and a navy coat with alpaca on the cuffs and collar.
Roberts|Wood
Katie Roberts-Wood was thinking about the concept of “cuteness” for fall and its association with vulnerability. She wanted to turn that idea on its head with a range of pieces that were both cute and thought-provoking. Delicate silk organza dresses in a palette of sorbet hues had multiple layers of ruffles and

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ANTEPRIMA OPENS GALLERIA

Anteprima flagship — 9 Corso Como

Mario Arlati’s “Incomplete Flags” at Anteprima’s Galleria space. 
Courtesy Photo.

In the year marking the 20th anniversary of its debut on the Milanese catwalk, Anteprima, the label founded and designed by Izumi Ogino, is opening Galleria, a new exhibition space. Located inside the brand’s flagship on Milan’s Corso Como shopping street, Galleria seamlessly blends with the retail area, infused with a minimal, elegant attitude. In keeping with Ogino’s continuous attention to the world of art, which has deeply influenced her work over the years, Galleria will team with both established and upcoming painters, sculptors and photographers. For the inauguration, Anteprima has selected Mario Arlati, an eclectic materic painter who will showcase the “Incomplete Flags” series.

ELIZABETH SULCER X MISS SIXTY

Feb. 21
7 to 9 p.m.
Miss Sixty flagship — 31 Piazza Duomo

Elizabeth Sulcer x Miss Sixty. 
Courtesy Photo.

New York-based stylist Elizabeth Sulcer has joined forces with Italian premium denim brand Miss Sixty to design her first capsule collection, available at the brand’s online store and Milanese flagship from Feb. 21. Inspired by the Robert Palmer Girl, musician Robert Palmer’s iconic band of five women sporting black dresses, slicked back hair and red lips, Sulcer defined a look that also reflects her

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MILAN — He may have a charming British accent, but his deep brown eyes definitely reveal his Italian roots.
Antonio Berardi was born and raised in the U.K. by Sicilian parents, who managed to guarantee a better life for themselves and their children far from their native island. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Berardi cut his teeth in London during that city’s energetic fashion moment in the Nineties, when he started showing his collections and was part of the “Cool Britannia” wave that saw the likes of Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan shine. In 1999, he moved his runway show to Milan and 10 years later went back to London on the occasion of the British Fashion Council’s 25th anniversary. Now the designer is returning to Milan, the city where — almost two decades ago — he chose to work and live with his life and business partner Alfredo Girombelli and their bull terrier, Bruno.
Here, Berardi discusses his decision to come back to Milan, his new show format at 1:15 p.m., his being a man designing for women and the new need for more intimacy as an antidote to the craziness of contemporary fashion.
WWD: Why did you decide to come back to

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