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Norma Kamali RTW Fall 2018

Eighties fashion might be one of the hottest trends for today’s fashion crowd, but for Norma Kamali, it isn’t her first volume-heavy rodeo. For her latest collection, Kamali reworked pieces from her past into modern, accessible pieces perfect for her brand’s summer drops — she refuses to call the season fall. For instance, in the Eighties, Kamali would pile three shoulder pads into each shoulder of her blazers but today refers to the look as “grotesque,” undoing and reworking said blazers into more sensible yet still powerful and sharp blazers.
Volume was abundant in the collection: through her iconic sleeping bag coat in an updated bubblegum pink, standout quilted wraps and joggers and some really great lightweight coats (with optional belt or fur collar), like a sensibly oversize pink coat with skinny red belt. The voluminous shapes were offset with velvet and print separates, like monochromatic red velvet or black-and-white striped easy suit sets, loungey ruffled skirts or more athletic jumpsuits and trousers. “Sublime and cool,” Kamali best described her collection of really fun ready-to-wear with a strong throw-on appeal.

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24.02.2018No comments
Gucci Donates to Gun-Control March

Moved by the courage, resilience and determination of students at Marjory Stoneman Douglas High School, Gucci is donating $500,000 to the gun-control march planned for Washington next month.
“We stand with March for Our Lives and the fearless students across the country who demand that their lives and safety become a priority,” the Italian fashion house said in a statement released exclusively to WWD. “We have all been directly or indirectly impacted by these senseless tragedies.”
Survivors of the massacre in Parkland, Fla., where a gunman killed 17 people on Feb. 14, are organizing the rally.
According to The Washington Post, organizers are expecting as many as 500,000 attendees at the event, citing details from an event permit application.
“I am truly moved by the courage of these students,” Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele told WWD. “My love is with them and it will be next to them on March 24. I am standing with March for Our Lives and the strong young women and men across the United States who are fighting for their generation and those to come.”
On Thursday, former President Obama tweeted: “Young people have helped lead all our great movements. How inspiring to see it again in so many smart,

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24.02.2018No comments
Iris van Herpern Talks About Her Experimental Approach to Futuristic Design

Preparing for the final U.S. stop of “Iris van Herpen: Transforming Fashion” at the Phoenix Art Museum, even the designer found herself considering her work in a new way.
In a phone interview Thursday, she said the museum’s expansive setup allows for visitors to see a big part of her work all in one room and the connectivity of her 10 years-plus career. “Obviously, as a fashion designer, I work in collections. Each collection has its own story, but there is always a continuity in the work. There are things that come back, materials that come back, textures that have become my identity over the years. Somehow seeing all my collections together over the years, I see my own work in a different light,” she said.
Once the exhibition moves on to Toronto, the Dutch designer plans to update it with more recent pieces from her past few collections. Known for her experimental, futuristic creations, the designer liked joint efforts. She recently did the dancers’ and singers’ costumes for Claude Debussy’s only completed opera, “Pelléas et Mélisande” at Opera Antwerpen in Antwerp. Marina Abramovic, who handled the sets, rang up van Herpen after seeing her designs. Up for the challenge, the designer said she met with

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24.02.2018No comments
Sustainability and Technology Front and Center at Paris Fabric Fairs

PARIS — Sustainability and technology remained the headline topics at the recent editions of the Première Vision Paris, Texworld Paris and sister trade shows Apparel Sourcing and Avantex here.
Visitor numbers were largely flat, coming off a high base following a run of strong editions, with a dip in Asian visitors attributed to the Lunar New Year. PV Paris attributed a 5 percent dip in American visitors to current challenges related to the transformation of the retail landscape.
A number of mills at Texworld had upped their sustainability criteria, with 71 exhibitors participating in the show’s Sustainable Sourcing itinerary. “Traceability is becoming the biggest issue in the U.S. and European markets,” said Lenzing senior vice president for Europe and the Americas Marco Schlimpert. The company showcased its Ecovero eco-responsible viscose fiber, which launched last May and is seeing brisk demand, as well as its Refibra technology, which involves upcycling cotton scraps, for example from garment production, in addition to wood pulp to produce new virgin Tencel Lyocell fibers using closed loop production. Within the re-branded Texworld Denim section, meanwhile, Pakistan-based Rajby Industries, whose biggest clients include H&M, Inditex and Mango, debuted new sustainable cottons that use up to 50 percent less water

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24.02.2018No comments
Rich Minimalism: Density the New Gauge of Luxury for Spring 2019

PARIS — Fabric collections at Première Vision Paris signaled a shift to a more delicate and refined mood for spring 2019, with a range of cloudy, hazy and powdery surfaces and gently nuanced fabrics that were soft on the eye.
Other directions for the season include “rich minimalism” explored through fabrics and leathers offering a syrupy, dense and suave suppleness.
Expect less visual excess. “It’s a season where there is a place for simplicity, with noble plains, and sophisticated mélanges. Density is a gauge of luxury,” said Ariane Bigot, deputy fashion director at PV Paris.
“Patterns are worked in a simplified way, but are never boring. Geometrics are dynamic and joyful,” continued Bigot, who also highlighted “new ornamentation” among trends.
“Even the jacquard specialists are demonstrating a new simplicity, offering exceptional monochromes that are sober and majestic.”
The hybridization trend continues to gather steam, with unexpected contrasts, and refined mixes of synthetics and raw and rustic, vegetal materials.
Undulating, hazy stripes and patterns draw the eye and are joyful and delicate.
Shiny fabrics and metallics are no longer limited to the red carpet, with bold modern spins surfacing in the sportswear, men’s wear and casualwear categories.
Wet “aquatic” looks, plastic-y finishes and jellified surfaces are key for accessories.
Meanwhile, “Infinite”

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24.02.2018No comments
Tod’s Seeks to Surprise With Drops, Collaborations

MILAN — Tod’s chief executive officer Diego Della Valle is overturning his company’s business model and launching a new project called Tod’s Factory, in a reference to Andy Warhol.
“It’s work in progress, we started developing it around six months ago,” Della Valle revealed ahead of the Tod’s runway show in Milan on Friday. “It means we will start dropping more collections throughout the year, capsules and limited editions, in collaboration with different individuals and friends of the house.” The executive declined to provide additional details about the designers, but said the first such collection would bow in June or July.
“Collections can no longer be presented every six months, and this is part of a new way to communicate and tell our story,” he explained. “This business model offers great opportunities, we can be faster and better control the collections.” Della Valle declined to say whether the women’s fall show, designed by a team, would be the last for the house. “We want to surprise you,” he said. He has been reviewing the role of a creative director after the exit of Alessandra Facchinetti in 2016, leaving the job to the brand’s team.
Della Valle is courting a younger customer and the collaborators on

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24.02.2018No comments