Kunihiko Morinaga paid a colorful playful and high-tech tribute to diversity with his fall collection. On glow-in-the-dark raincoats and sneakers — the latter in collaboration with Onitsuka Tiger — he used a PVC prism structure which refracts and splits the light. The garments produced different colors from different angles, playing on the idea of varying perspectives for different people.
Some of the more clinical looks pairing white prism dresses with matching Space-Age boots had a retro-futurist Courrèges vibe. He also sent out sculptural peplum skirt suits in Glen checks and houndstooth, coated — as per the scientific show notes — in a film with a multi-ocular lens effect that divides an image into multiple ones. A run of bright optical patterned pieces with vest overlays and ruffled bibs in a clear bubble wrap-style plastic material were fun.
The flared dresses and blousons gathered in zippered pleats at the front, like a half-open umbrella, felt a bit tricky. More compelling were the pairings of simple long skirts in iridescent fabrics that changed under the light with chunky prism knits — the perfect clash of techno and craft.
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