Alexis Mabille was in peace and love mode for fall, with a dove motif winging its way through the collection, surfacing on a sweetheart bustier dress in black pique, for instance, or as a white cassimere and gold-embroidered appliqué on the line’s haute sweatshirt dresses. The latter was one of a sprinkling of street-chic moments, along with jogging pants with rows of oversize pearls running up the legs that came in midnight blue crepe or lace.
It sounds over-the-top, but the collection — and the designer’s unabashedly rich sense of glamour — felt more reined in as a whole, though it remained DNA sharp, with myriad spins on his signature shirting.
Worked in a range of soft, makeup tones, the outerwear was the best part, especially the pagoda jacket in denim and white mink trim, and an overcoat in flesh-tone cashmere with white piping.
Providing the show’s fun live soundtrack were Audrey Ismaël and Vanessa Filho of the French pop act Smoking Smoking, dressed in matching gold latex catsuits like flesh-and-blood Oscar statuettes.
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