David Koma, a Georgian by birth, was in a combative mood for fall, as he took cues from the chokha, a centuries-old “warrior dress” worn by Caucasian men from his home country, he informed reporters backstage.
But don’t get fooled by the belligerent theme. It wouldn’t be a Koma show if that didn’t translate into a volley of body-con numbers destined for the closets of those high-powered vixens who naturally gravitate toward his high-energy collections.
Deep V-lines, bare shoulders and sinuous silhouettes were at the forefront here. Koma embellished them with grosgrain ribbons, metal tubes and in lieu of real-life ammo, plexiglass ornaments, which imbued the dresses — as well as some slim-cut suits — with a distinctly graphic, almost futuristic aesthetic.
The warrior references were at loggerheads with a series of floral camouflage numbers done in metallic macramé and lace, which looked labor-intensive but did not offer any fresh visual input.
Where Koma surprised most, however, was in his daywear, an admittedly rare sighting at his evening-focused shows. Among the highlights were long, paneled military coats and austere leather minis done up with cozy Mongolian muff hemlines. They looked both chic and sassy.
Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…