Roland Mouret is evolving. “I’ve been going through a phase, as a designer who has had a strong moment in his career because of a silhouette, how do you move on to a new silhouette? To really move on, you have to deconstruct [the old] silhouette to create a new one,” he told WWD. “It’s been 13 years since I did the Galaxy dress. I chose my box, I defined it, and it’s nice now to come out of it and choose another box.”
This re-education, which began last season, has led him back to the kind of things he was doing pre-Galaxy: exploring a fluidity that has allowed him to redefine his “relationship to the female body.”
The concept of education ties neatly with the collection’s thematic inspiration, the 1974 soft porn film “Emmanuelle,” with its themes of female sexual empowerment, which in turn relates to Mouret’s other inspirations for spring: The #MeToo and Time’s Up movements.
He translated this into a collection that he said was rooted in the individuality of the wearer, with pieces designed to mix ‘n’ match, as opposed to showing “full looks.” His newfound fluidity flowed throughout, in the plum hammered satin coat dress that opened behind to reveal
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