The residence and former studio of Willem de Kooning set the stage for Marina Moscone’s spring presentation. Moscone described the space, recently designated a New York City landmark, as “so anti-de Kooning,” with its trompe-l’oeil details, walls covered in pastel painted mallards and water lilies and ornate crown molding surrounding the high ceiling’s hand-painted mural. The space contrasted with Moscone’s ultrarefined and highly textural collection, but nicely emphasized the idea that spring had more art connotations than previous collections.
Moscone looked to avant-garde Italian artist Piero Manzoni for textural and color references, resulting in sheer red, blue and green accents on printed organza frocks and ruched top-stitched dresses that were carried over from resort but updated with long strings that mimicked fringe. The collection infused the designer’s signature, basque tailored suiting, twisted silk gowns with raw edges and sleek tunics over pants, with beautiful feathered knitwear and long-fringed dresses. Footwear also made its debut for spring, with chic flat or wedge-heeled leather sandals. As they glided through de Kooning’s rooms, Moscone’s designs felt sophisticated and artful but grounded.
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