Natacha Ramsay-Levi envisaged her first pre-fall collection for Chloé as a bridge: an opportunity to anchor the house codes she riffed on in her debut last season, and to introduce some ideas for her upcoming fall display.
Playing with layering, she contrasted two types of silhouettes: the flowing, boho shirtdresses that are one of the brand’s signatures, versus an upscale version of activewear combining men’s tailoring with an accumulation of cropped pants, leggings and athletic socks — and a killer high-top sneaker.
“As soon as I arrived, the first thing I was asked to do was to design a sneaker,” said the designer, who joined the label last year from Louis Vuitton, where she was Nicolas Ghesquière’s right hand.
The Chloé version of the now ubiquitous footwear staple, which also comes in a low-top version, features a deep sole and zigzag nylon straps. “These chunky soles that give you a boost, yet keep you grounded, make for a very strong attitude. I think it’s important today to be able to stand tall and be active,” said Ramsay-Levi.
The same attitude pervades the clothes, with wardrobe staples like blanket capes, silk shirts, peacoats, riding jackets and flared pants piled on in seemingly effortless combinations. Among
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