Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran got their collection in working order for fall. Not that the designers are in the practice of violating professional dress codes with their designs, but the lineup felt like a stylishly melancholy meditation on classic office attire. What would a fashion person wear if chained to a desk all day?
The show opened with a short black wool shirt dress, covered up to the collar, and cycled through austere button-down shirts with extra long sleeves that were paired with classic, conservative black pants or a below-the knee skirt. There was an oversize ivory coat and matching pants in wide wale corduroy over a chunky turtleneck sweater, and a collarless oversize suit jacket and matching pants in drab gray. The angular proportions and cool color felt like a flex of a harder, edgier set of muscles that Lemaire and Tran keep under wraps. They softened, feminized and closed in on the body without losing any chic clinical bite with a clay colored tunic pulled into loose folds over white tights and shoes, and a zipped gray shirt with rounded shoulders and blouson sleeves over a straight skirt.
Showing up at a new job in this stuff won’t make you any friends
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