Alessandro Dell’Acqua made quick work of his fall collection for Rochas.
“It’s a mix of a perfect Italian like Maria Angelli and an eccentric woman like Hélène Rochas,” he said backstage. “It’s an equilibrium between classic and eccentric.” He made his point without further ado, which was a change for him. Typically Dell’Acqua masks the romance and midcentury glamour that anchor the house in a significant amount of zany styling. Not this time. The collection was an exercise in purebred femininity and elegance, notably more controlled and classic than kooky. Some might complain it was too quiet, but it felt refreshing, like a reset.
The dress-centric lineup was one of Dell’Acqua’s most commercial, for sure. Likewise, the shoes were a big step toward branding with pumps set with a crystal “R” on the toe and extremely curved heels. Ladylike silhouettes with a whiff of retro primness included a lean, rust colored dress with long sleeves and embroidered cuffs and a pink T-shirt and matching pleated skirt with a soft inverted pleat.
Dell’Acqua kept things easy — shirtdresses, baby dolls, a lean tea-length brocade style with a clean bustier bodice — but didn’t skimp on the details. Many of the dresses that were plain in front were
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