Curiel RTW Fall 2018

Dynamism was at the core of Lella Curiel’s elegant collection of evening dresses and special occasionwear. Designed to delicately follow the movement of the body, the pieces included a black and white gown with sculptural lines, a fluid chiffon lime green dress punctuated by exquisite embroideries and an organza strapless style echoing the shape of a calla lily. Wisterias were embroidered on a charming short dress crafted from 12 tonal layers of organza panning from lilac to deep purple, while separates included an embroidered top in a multicolor foliage pattern which was matched with a maxi printed skirt with cascading ribbons.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

Y’s design atelier, headed by Risa Matsushima, took inspiration from vintage couture references for fall, calling attention to the craftsmanship behind the designs in a collection that was particularly strong on the outerwear and — perhaps because of its inspiration — dived deeper into feminine territory.
For the label’s core Black collection, contrasting white basting was left in place on the label’s staple outsized black gabardine jackets, while on other designs, buttons were replaced by stitchwork, visible in their absence and replaced by hidden press studs.
Among specially developed fabrics, there was a houndstooth check that looked to be a patchwork but wasn’t, adding a new spin on the ongoing plaid trend with a boxy jacket or the house’s recurrent asymmetric pinafore dress. There was also a paisley jacquard wool/cupro blend in shades of blue and green that worked to contrast Y’s signature androgynous shapes with the femininity of the fabric.
Moving into military territory, the collection offered up plenty of khaki, worked in several coats, including a surprisingly lightweight belted wool number with turquoise knit edging details that gave it a homespun twist. A red wool cocoon coat was another standout, its fabric subtly worked to be heavy in parts, lighter in

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

Lou Menais, Léa Sebban and Jerry Journo’s was a nifty blend of references — a bit grunge, a bit retro girl next door, maybe a bit of vaudeville — combined to create a fall collection full of personality pieces that were still quite wearable.
The models wore paint-splattered construction boots that heightened the grunge overtones of a T-shirt over a plaid shirt and green corduroy skirt, and toughened a lady-ish workwear jacket in blue hound’s tooth over a sparkly shirt and a long,fluid skirt printed with music notes. The designers tweaked the attitude of classic good-girl clothes by playing with the proportions, as in a tight red sweater over a long, slim nubby red-and-white hound’s tooth skirt. Pant suits came paneled in mismatched fabrics — windowpane checks, floral jacquard and solid white.
 

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

Simon Porte Jacquemus is a born storyteller, weaving a personal narrative around each collection. Morocco is where he often heads after the shows to recharge, so he decided to dedicate his fall collection, titled “Le Souk,” to those sun-soaked escapades. Who cares if the season is fall?
He opened with a rippling cream tunic that read at first like a djellaba, but was in fact an oversized jumpsuit, its swirling pant legs almost indistinguishable. Then came clingy sheer knits: a nude bodysuit, and a long, pale blue scoop-necked dress that was split to the thigh.
It was clear that local dress codes weren’t going to cramp the designer’s natural hedonism; no cultural appropriation here. He layered miniskirts under long split skirts (modesty panels, if you like), while a black shirt dress was yanked open to frame the collarbone. “I took only the colors and the good energy of Morocco,” he said backstage.
Jacquemus named his brand after his late mother, but lately, he’s been broadening his horizons. “I’ve come to realize the Jacquemus woman has many faces. It’s not just a French girl who looks like my mother. It was ridiculous to think that, but I was young. And now I’ve understood it’s

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.Read More…

WOMEN’S DAY: “Celebrating the feminine,” Cara Delevingne yelled as she took in the decor of the Dior show on Tuesday: the walls, floor and benches a collage of women’s magazines from 1968. The feisty model and actress had accessorized her gray suit with a black logo bra and cap from the show.
Joining her front row were guests including Langley Fox Hemingway, Yasmin Le Bon, rising French actress Lola Le Lann and Olga Kurylenko, who has five films in the works.
“I’m completely blown away by the visuals, it’s such a powerful message. It’s a celebration of the Sixties and the Seventies, the revolution — and we are in a revolution now. It’s female empowerment, female togetherness,” added Delevingne who is currently filming the new Amazon TV fantasy series “Carnival Row” in Prague, opposite Orlando Bloom, in which she plays “a fairy warrior.”
Ellen von Unwerth, who’ll be launching her magazine, Von, this weekend in Paris, said the first issue — “the Fight issue” — was inspired by the female boxers at the Overthrow boxing club on Bleecker Street in New York.
Selah Marley, who wowed the crowd with her look, combining a checkerboard jumpsuit, Space Age mirrored specs and a jutting ponytail, demurred on projects,

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

IT’S ALL RELATIVE: Dressing like Albert Einstein is one thing, but now true devotees can smell like him, too.
Levi’s Vintage Clothing has introduced a limited run of a replica of the Nobel Prize winner’s favorite leather jacket — Levi’s Menlo Cossack Jacket and a complementary Einstein-inspired scent. Levi’s plunked down 110,500 pounds for the pungent, well-worn leather jacket at Christie’s Valuable Books and Manuscripts sale in July 2016. At the time of the Christie’s sale, specialist Thomas Venning commented about the aroma of the pipe smoking-physicist favorite jacket — more than 60 years after his death. The esteemed scientist who became a U.S. Citizen in 1940 often appeared in photographs at the height of his fame in the mid-Thirties wearing his Menlo Cossack.
There are now 500 sheep leather pieces of the Italian-made piece and each is hand numbered. The Brooklyn-based perfume house D.S. & Durga developed the Levi’s-approved bottled scent — a blend of burley pipe tobacco, papyrus manuscripts, and vintage leather. Consumers who buy the $1,200 jacket and GWP at Levi’s online store or at select locations will also receive a No. 97 auction paddle as a wink at the one that was used to bid on the actual

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

MILAN — Eraldo Poletto, chief executive officer of Salvatore Ferragamo SpA, is leaving the Florence-based company effective March 8, following the approval of the 2017 financial statements.
Poletto had joined the company from Furla in 2016.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

AU REVOIR: Bear hugs were the order of the day at the Tuesday presentation of the swan song collection by Bruno Frisoni for Roger Vivier. As reported, the shoe guru synonymous with the revival of the iconic French footwear house is set to exit the firm after a 16-year collaboration. His successor has yet to be named.
Frisoni was clearly moved by the flow of well-wishers, but kept his emotions in check. “There’s always a beginning and an end, but I think it’s very important to go through changes; fashion is all about changes. If it’s not the people, it’s the collections.
“At a point you feel you need to put yourself in a risky situation, you feel too comfortable in what you’re doing. You’re looking for new challenges and you see that they’re not coming where you are. That was probably what pushed me to make the decision,” added the designer, who had brand ambassador Inès de la Fressange by his side.
“Inès and I, we started this from scratch and we imprinted in people’s heads an old name as a new name. For sure, it’s a strong moment, but for the brand it’s also a strong moment because with what we

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

MORE RAGS: Multitasking musician Albert Hammond Jr. has a thing about clothes, and he’s even mulling a career in men’s wear — in the long-term.
“I don’t know why they make jeans so long; you don’t get to see the socks,” said the musician — and guitarist for The Strokes — on Monday night, pointing to his turned-up skinny jeans. “I’ve already turned these inside out.”
He performed songs from his latest album for guests at the Beak Street Rag & Bone shop in London’s Soho, and it wasn’t the first time he’d teamed with the American label. In 2015, he DJ’d for the brand’s men’s spring 2016 presentation in New York.
“I like dressing, and I like clothes. I see David Bowie and The Rolling Stones in pictures, and it interests me because I like looking a certain way. I like aesthetics, but when I hear the word ‘fashion,’ it feels like a different world,” said the musician who was wearing a suede camel biker jacket with his skinny jeans.
He has dabbled in fashion design before. Hammond co-created a collection of suits for now-defunct L.A. Boutique Confederacy. “We made cool suits, and it paid for itself, and I hope to one day

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Read More…

Vineyards and orchards will be your only neighbors.