Gucci to Return to Men’s Fashion Week

GUCCI’S CHOICE: Milan Men’s Fashion Week is three months away, but it’s getting an unexpected boost, courtesy of Gucci. The Italian fashion brand will be returning to the January edition with a men’s wear show, after deciding to go coed in 2017. Since then, the Italian fashion company has opted to present its collections during women’s fashion week in February and September. “It seems only natural to me to present my men’s and women’s collections together. It’s the way I see the world today,” said Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele at the time.
A date for the January show has not been set yet.
However, things are changing, and after a number of slimmer men’s fashion week calendars, more labels could perhaps be enticed to follow Gucci’s example. Camera Nazionale della Moda has been working on shaking up the status quo and in July it revealed Milan Fashion Week would present different show calendars going forward. Some key Italian fashion players agreed to rotate slots in upcoming seasons to favor a more balanced calendar to benefit the system and the city. As a result, during the latest women’s Milan Fashion Week edition in September, Prada staged its show in the afternoon of the first day of shows,

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19.10.2019 / by / in
Jackson Wiederhoeft Debuts Namesake Label Through Ballet Performance

On Tuesday evening, young designer Jackson Wiederhoeft unveiled his namesake brand “Wiederhoeft” at a theatrical ballet performance-cum-fashion-show for his spring 2020 collection titled, “Spooky Couture.” The collection marks the designer’s first on his own, having recently left a three-year design position at Thom Browne following his graduation from Parsons School of Design in 2016, where he won “Women’s Designer of the Year.” 
“I feel like I got my master’s degree, in a sense, there,” Wiederhoeft mused of his time at Thom Browne, where he focused on hand-embroidered garments within the women’s runway collections. “When I left Thom, I thought I was going to do this on nights and weekends while at another job and eventually do this [full-time], but then I was thinking, ‘it’s never going to get any easier,’ and I’m dying to do something. Plus, I have so many friends who are going to be great collaborators,” he explained.

For his debut collection, the designer worked with prior connections like Geri Gerard as well as factories in India to produce his collection out of his Bay Ridge, Brooklyn, N.Y. studio, where the designer also resides. Wiederhoeft collaborated with former Steven Jones Milliner, Vivienne Lake, to produce ornate headpieces for the

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19.10.2019 / by / in
Barneys, Full of Yearning, Looks to Its Next Life

Barneys New York, flanked by lawyers and financial advisers for months as it tangled with landlords, vendors and investors, is showing a more vulnerable side. The retailer has found in Authentic Brands Group a prospective buyer that would scoop up its web site and brand name — and potentially keep some stores after liquidating the current stock. 
In a wistful Instagram post on Friday, the retailer described the ABG bid as a “positive step forward.” But it alluded to hopes for more. Perhaps a white knight, who would come in with the promise of a going concern bid that would keep the stores humming. 
“We are working hard to achieve a successful sale process that will preserve the integrity of this incredible brand and ultimately benefit our employees, customers, vendors, and other business partners. We appreciate your patience and ongoing support of Barneys 🖤” Barneys posted. 
Despite the $271.4 million stalking-horse deal with ABG and lender B. Riley, some of the retailer’s main constituencies, like vendors and employees, appear to still be pinning their hopes on Sam Ben-Avraham. The Kith backer is still in talks with landlords, vendors and employees to put together a bid for around $250 million or more that would

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19.10.2019 / by / in
The North Face’s Tim Hamilton on Blending Performance and Lifestyle

It’s been a busy two years for Tim Hamilton since he joined The North Face as global creative director in October 2017.
He’s quietly been assembling a team, poring through the brand’s archives for inspiration and applying what he’s learned to put a fresh stamp on all aspects of the product line.
On Thursday night in New York, Hamilton introduced the key players in The North Face’s creative office and gave a preview of the pinnacle product that will hit the market for spring, the first season when the fruits of their designs will be revealed.
“I’ve always had a fondness for this brand,” Hamilton said. “It’s so recognizable, has a global reach and hits all generations. But there were a lot of diamonds to unearth.”
His mission is to elevate the design ethos of The North Face while ensuring that the product still delivers on its performance mission.
So his first order of business was to research the brand’s heritage since it was founded in 1966, and the innovations it has created for the past 50-plus years. The color palette, the high-tech fabrics and the details that have defined the brand are being used as “the guardrails for what we do,” he said.
Although the

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Moda Operandi Touches Down in L.A. to Fete Johanna Ortiz

There were so many dramatic sleeves and ruffles in the private dining room of the San Vicente Bungalows in Los Angeles on Thursday night that the women wearing them had to artfully dodge one another when it came time to hug hello.
The occasion was Moda Operandi’s new holiday capsule collection with Colombian designer Johanna Ortiz, known for her dramatically fenimine silhouettes — floral prints, blooming shoulders, fluted skirts, flounces — but also marked the e-commerce company’s first significant event since opening its L.A. office earlier this year.
Lauren Santo Domingo, Moda’s cofounder and chief brand officer, said L.A. is the company’s second best market after New York, and after looking at the data the company culls from transactions, she found it’s the number-one market for Ortiz’s collections.
“Our customer is very feminine,” Santo Domingo said. “She loves color, runway dresses, and she likes full looks.”
While talking about the Moda customer and her affinity for Ortiz, Kate Hudson came up with a friend to enlist Santo Domingo’s help getting out of the patio area where the event was cordoned off. Security wasn’t letting them escape the small crowd for a quick smoke.
“Will you make sure to let them know they can do whatever

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19.10.2019 / by / in
Playing It Safe Clashes With Creativity at Shanghai Fashion Week

SHANGHAI — It was almost impossible to attend everything during Shanghai Fashion Week. Show venues were sparsely located along the Huangpu River that divides the city in half. Buyers and press would need to take a 30-minute tunnel-crossing trip from the downtown Xintiandi main show space to the Labelhood show space, the 80,000-ton warehouse that is the Minsheng Wharf, where the Prada men’s spring 2020 show was held in May, on the outskirts of East Bund. While the biggest trade show in town, Ontimeshow was located on West Bund, a 40-minute drive when there is no traffic.
But distance doesn’t stop people from commuting. The upgraded Xintiandi venue, which was built with sustainable materials, hosts most of the local fashion players and caters to their need to entertain government officials and regional distributors. Mainstream media and local celebrities attend the shows here religiously. Lily, China’s power player in the female professional-wear market, opened the 12-day-long fashion marathon on Oct. 9 here. 
While Labelhood serves as a creative hub for young talents, the Xintiandi venue was more similar to what you see at London or Paris fashion weeks, where local and international press, influencers and buyers gather to scout the next big thing.

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19.10.2019 / by / in
Burberry Unveils Moscow Flagship

Burberry has opened the doors to a new store in Moscow, one of its key markets, within the luxury department store Gum.
The store, which is located next to the likes of Miu Miu and Chanel, spans two floors and is 9,700 square feet. It was designed to highlight the building’s original features such as groin vaults and paneled walls and also mirrors the minimalist retail design the brand introduced under Riccardo Tisci, with lots of beige interiors and sleek, marble furniture.
The space will stock the full men’s and women’s fall 2019 ranges, as well as the monogram range dubbed “Tempest,” the heritage trenchcoat collection, as well as the full accessories range, with highlights including bag styles such as the TB cross-body bag and a new iteration called the “Lola.”
To mark the opening, Burberry hosted a party for some 300 guests including the company’s chief executive officer Marco Gobbetti and Gum ceo Teimuraz Guguberidze. The event was held at Gum’s Demonstration Hall, which was decorated with a pair of two giant mirror unicorns for the occasion.
“Overlooking the iconic Red Square, the store is the latest expression of the Burberry in-store experience. Russia is an important market for Burberry and we are

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